HueForge Wiki - User contributions [en]

Stained Glass

2026-04-28T20:13:23Z

Tlavedas: /* Introduction */

==How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane==

'''Tom Lavedas'''

[[File:Title.jpg|172px|thumb|right]]

==Introduction==

'''Note:''' This article uses the old, pre v0.9+ UI, but the concepts are mostly still valid. However, very recent updates in v0.9.3+ offer an alternate workflow to perform color separation within HueForge itself. I hope to update this article when time permits.

Since I developed the two-part HueForge stained glass colored lithophane technique with the creation of my first model, the Cardinal, people have asked for descriptions of how it’s done and for tutorial videos. Since I have no experience with video creation, I’ve decided to write an article to describe my process.

==Step 1: Image Selection==

The obvious first step is to select or create the image to be modeled. I have used Image Creator available as a tool in Microsoft’s latest Edge browser, which is not offered as a recommendation. It is just that it is free to use and it’s the one I have been using. The common prompt I have found useful is something like “[Desired object noun/phrase] in a simple stained glass styled medallion”

('''UPDATE:''' I find that offering a starting image of an interesting subject and asking an AI tool like Microsoft's Copilot to reimagine it as a stained-glass medallion often works better at getting the desired result.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig1.png|256px|thumb|right]]

For example, “Colorful butterfly in a simple stained glass styled medallion” yielded these possible choices. Next, select the one you like or think will look best in a print. Of these offerings, I think either the one in the upper right or lower left would work well. The one in the upper left is probably too busy to work well in this application and the one lower right is just weird.

One other consideration in making a choice is to consider the number of color families in the image. Colored lithophanes can only be done in one set of related color tones, like red/yellow or shades of blue or green. So, to get two or more tones, two separate parts are needed.

[[File:StainedGlassFig2.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]

Separating red/yellows from blues or greens is relatively straight forward, but getting the purple in the image at the lower left is more difficult. That is because purple straddles the red and blue color domains. Thus, it might require blending the two color families, one on each half of the two-part print that is needed for this approach. In addition, there are a number of greens in the image. Blending colors is possible of course, but the more blending required, the harder it is to get right. That is because, at this time HueForge does not directly support a visualization of the two halves together. Rather the designer needs to do that in their head and/or with a number of trial-and-error prints. Such visualization is on the app’s developmental roadmap, but will not be available in the near term.

For this discussion, we’ll stick with the image on the upper right.

While not quite as colorful as the one on the lower left, it should be easier to process and to get a good print result with.

==Step 2: Photo Processing==
[[File:StainedGlassFig3.png|256px|thumb|right]]

The next step is to preprocess the image in your favorite photo editor. I’m most familiar with paint.net at this writing, though I was recently gifted a copy of the Affinity application.

The first three operations in the photo editor are generally to crop the image to edges of the actual image, then to use the magic wand tool to erase/delete the background outside the boundary of the image and then to save it as a new PNG file type to support the now transparent background. So, it would look like this before starting to separate the colors.

Then the process of isolating one color family starts by painting areas to be removed with white. I find using the paint can tool for most parts to flood the areas surrounded by the black borders to be fairly quick and effective. Use a solid fill with a modest Tolerance setting. Adjust tolerance up or down as needed to keep from painting over colors that are to remain. I also tend to keep all of the boundary outlines in both parts. If they are dark black that is very easy. If they tend to be one or the other of the desired colors, like a dark blue, it can get trickier to set the right tolerance. I have sometimes found it necessary to redraw some boundaries in black, because the original coloring is too close to the one I was eliminating.
[[File:StainedGlassFig4.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Here is the first part with just the blues and greens remaining and is saved as Butterfly_Part_1.png. All of the yellow, creams and reds have been painted over. I did it bit by bit, though there are ways to set a global erasure. If done that way, introducing a white circle of the right size on a second layer behind the image and then flattening the image is another way that can be faster to fill for a lot of small areas. That approach requires the tolerance of the erasure to be properly managed. I also added a black mounting loop in the image before saving it.

Then use the original PNG image and repeat the process to eliminate the blue parts. In the process it might be advised to use the paint brush tool to eliminate bits of color floating in the middle of newly painted white areas.

[[File:StainedGlassFig5.png|200px|thumb|right]]

Though they should not affect the quality of the final print, they will add to the print time to lay down tiny dots of filament where they are not needed or wanted. Bits of the color being removed that are immediately adjacent to the dark borders need not be eliminated, though some larger areas might better be removed.

Here is the second part containing the reds and yellows, which share a common color domain.

[[File:StainedGlassFig6.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Those who are especially observant might notice that there are green regions in both the blue and red/yellow images. That’s because it's the plan to blend the two parts to create the green in the final model, even though no green filament will be used in either part.

One final part that is not obvious with this image is that it is usually necessary to mirror the second part before saving it. This is so the two printed parts can be attached back-to-back on their respective flat, build plate sides.

The butterfly image used here is perfectly symmetric, so the mirroring is not evident/necessary. In most cases it is very necessary. As was true for the Cardinal model at the top of this article and for the woodpecker example a little further down in here. It’s a step I have sometimes missed right up until I was about to send the job to the printer.

==Step 3: HueForge==

With the two images processed, it’s now time for HueForge. Here is a good place to start.

[[File:StainedGlassFig7.png|750px|thumb|center]]

A suggested starting point is to set Lithophane Blending Type at the upper left, the LED Light Type set to Cold White, the Base Layer and Min Depth set to 0.16 mm and just black and natural white in the sliders. I have found that good results are achieved with the layer height set to 0.08 mm, which lowers the print time. I also set the size to 150 by 150 mm once an image is loaded for the same reason, but those are personal choices.

The first slider is a natural filament set to one layer above the base, or 0.24 mm, which is especially useful where the base layer uses a natural (or nearly transparent filament) to minimize any color shifting or muting of the colors. For lithophanes, thinner tends to be better to let the light shine through. So, I suggest working with a Max Height around 1 to 1.5 mm.

Now comes the subjective part. Adding the colors to the image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig8.png|750px|thumb|center]]

I’ve chosen a blue and a navy blue and tested the addition of an aqua (fifth disabled slider) by enabling and disabling it to see what the effect was. I decided to stay with just the four filaments to fit in my AMS, but adding one more is not that difficult. If you are doing manual swaps, staying with the four filaments reduces the amount of babysitting needed to finish the print.

[[File:StainedGlassFig9.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

This butterfly image does not have large areas of white. However, if white is desired, there are two options. One is to just leave the areas as white, which are rendered as natural. The other is to specify a lower TD white filament in addition to the natural. In the first case, nothing special needs to be done, but know that the areas will likely be nearly transparent in the final print. If that is not the desired outcome, like in the breast and wing areas of the woodpecker print shown here, the areas to be rendered as white need to be recolored to differentiate them from the ones to be left natural. Paint the areas to be white a very faint gray in the image and then add the lower TD white in HueForge as a few layers above the initial base layer.

Notice the rendered mesh (on the left) does not have the same vibrancy of color as the original. However, my experience with version 0.7.2 is that it doesn’t represent the results of a lithophane perfectly. The actual prints tend to be a bit more colorful than they appear in the program. (I know the developer is aware of this and should address it in a later release, but not with version 0.8.0.)

Save this as a Part 1 project. Then do the same with the image of the second part.

[[File:StainedGlassFig10.png|750px|thumb|center]]

This is what it might look like with yellow and two reds, one low TD (>1) and one midlevel TD (4 – 5). The black is disabled, because I didn’t think it added anything important here. Again, yellow does not appear to fill spaces you might expect to see it in, but it will be there in the actual print. It is a minor failing of the current version of the program. My experience, even with my fairly high TD yellow is that it is much more apparent in the print than it appears here. It is possible a lower TD yellow, like Polylite Savannah Yellow, would give a somewhat more striking color.

[[File:StainedGlassFig11.png|400px|thumb|right]]

A review of the results above has revealed a potential problem that should be addressed before proceeding to printing. Specifically, neither of the parts has green color in it, but as noted earlier there are green areas in the original image. The plan was to color the individual parts in such a way that when joined the colors would blend to give green. However, a number of the areas in this second part are far too red. This is likely to end up too dark and not green, maybe a dark purple or even nearly black.

The solution is to preprocess these areas to lighten them so they present as a yellow, rather than red. The result should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig12.png|600px|thumb|center]]

Save this second project, say as Butterfly_Part_2.hfp.

==Step 4: Slicing and Printing==

I’m assuming readers are experienced with using their slicer of choice and have prepped a HueForge print at least a few times before. So, I’m not going to be too detailed in this part of the process. I’ll just touch on the basics and mention anything that might be unique about preparing these particular print jobs.

I’m using BambuStudio as my slicer and have chosen to load two build plates with the two parts, though they get sliced one at a time. (The warning messages can be ignored.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig13.png|750px|thumb|center]]

My HueForge specific 0.08 mm layer height slicing profile and procedures are used here. After the first slicing, use the information in the [Project name]_descibe.txt file of the first part to set the filament transitions.

After slicing a second time, it should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig14.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Once sliced, send it to the printer and if you are fortunate enough to have an AMS/MMU and it is loaded with the proper filaments you can go enjoy some other activity for a couple of hours.

When you return it is time to slice and repeat the process for the second part.

==Step 5: Assembling==

When both parts have been printed, it’s time to assemble the final model. Align the two parts back-to-back and be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the darker parts. I use some around the darkest parts and around the very edge to keep the glue from showing. If spread thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.

Here is the final result compared to the original image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig15.jpg|750px|thumb|left]][[File:StainedGlassFig16.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Hope this has helped explain the process sufficient to let you replicate the results with your chosen image. Have fun.

[[#How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane|Back to the top]]

Stained Glass

2026-04-28T20:13:03Z

Tlavedas: /* Introduction */

==How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane==

'''Tom Lavedas'''

[[File:Title.jpg|172px|thumb|right]]

==Introduction==

'''Note"''' This article uses the old, pre v0.9+ UI, but the concepts are mostly still valid. However, very recent updates in v0.9.3+ offer an alternate workflow to perform color separation within HueForge itself. I hope to update this article when time permits.

Since I developed the two-part HueForge stained glass colored lithophane technique with the creation of my first model, the Cardinal, people have asked for descriptions of how it’s done and for tutorial videos. Since I have no experience with video creation, I’ve decided to write an article to describe my process.

==Step 1: Image Selection==

The obvious first step is to select or create the image to be modeled. I have used Image Creator available as a tool in Microsoft’s latest Edge browser, which is not offered as a recommendation. It is just that it is free to use and it’s the one I have been using. The common prompt I have found useful is something like “[Desired object noun/phrase] in a simple stained glass styled medallion”

('''UPDATE:''' I find that offering a starting image of an interesting subject and asking an AI tool like Microsoft's Copilot to reimagine it as a stained-glass medallion often works better at getting the desired result.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig1.png|256px|thumb|right]]

For example, “Colorful butterfly in a simple stained glass styled medallion” yielded these possible choices. Next, select the one you like or think will look best in a print. Of these offerings, I think either the one in the upper right or lower left would work well. The one in the upper left is probably too busy to work well in this application and the one lower right is just weird.

One other consideration in making a choice is to consider the number of color families in the image. Colored lithophanes can only be done in one set of related color tones, like red/yellow or shades of blue or green. So, to get two or more tones, two separate parts are needed.

[[File:StainedGlassFig2.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]

Separating red/yellows from blues or greens is relatively straight forward, but getting the purple in the image at the lower left is more difficult. That is because purple straddles the red and blue color domains. Thus, it might require blending the two color families, one on each half of the two-part print that is needed for this approach. In addition, there are a number of greens in the image. Blending colors is possible of course, but the more blending required, the harder it is to get right. That is because, at this time HueForge does not directly support a visualization of the two halves together. Rather the designer needs to do that in their head and/or with a number of trial-and-error prints. Such visualization is on the app’s developmental roadmap, but will not be available in the near term.

For this discussion, we’ll stick with the image on the upper right.

While not quite as colorful as the one on the lower left, it should be easier to process and to get a good print result with.

==Step 2: Photo Processing==
[[File:StainedGlassFig3.png|256px|thumb|right]]

The next step is to preprocess the image in your favorite photo editor. I’m most familiar with paint.net at this writing, though I was recently gifted a copy of the Affinity application.

The first three operations in the photo editor are generally to crop the image to edges of the actual image, then to use the magic wand tool to erase/delete the background outside the boundary of the image and then to save it as a new PNG file type to support the now transparent background. So, it would look like this before starting to separate the colors.

Then the process of isolating one color family starts by painting areas to be removed with white. I find using the paint can tool for most parts to flood the areas surrounded by the black borders to be fairly quick and effective. Use a solid fill with a modest Tolerance setting. Adjust tolerance up or down as needed to keep from painting over colors that are to remain. I also tend to keep all of the boundary outlines in both parts. If they are dark black that is very easy. If they tend to be one or the other of the desired colors, like a dark blue, it can get trickier to set the right tolerance. I have sometimes found it necessary to redraw some boundaries in black, because the original coloring is too close to the one I was eliminating.
[[File:StainedGlassFig4.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Here is the first part with just the blues and greens remaining and is saved as Butterfly_Part_1.png. All of the yellow, creams and reds have been painted over. I did it bit by bit, though there are ways to set a global erasure. If done that way, introducing a white circle of the right size on a second layer behind the image and then flattening the image is another way that can be faster to fill for a lot of small areas. That approach requires the tolerance of the erasure to be properly managed. I also added a black mounting loop in the image before saving it.

Then use the original PNG image and repeat the process to eliminate the blue parts. In the process it might be advised to use the paint brush tool to eliminate bits of color floating in the middle of newly painted white areas.

[[File:StainedGlassFig5.png|200px|thumb|right]]

Though they should not affect the quality of the final print, they will add to the print time to lay down tiny dots of filament where they are not needed or wanted. Bits of the color being removed that are immediately adjacent to the dark borders need not be eliminated, though some larger areas might better be removed.

Here is the second part containing the reds and yellows, which share a common color domain.

[[File:StainedGlassFig6.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Those who are especially observant might notice that there are green regions in both the blue and red/yellow images. That’s because it's the plan to blend the two parts to create the green in the final model, even though no green filament will be used in either part.

One final part that is not obvious with this image is that it is usually necessary to mirror the second part before saving it. This is so the two printed parts can be attached back-to-back on their respective flat, build plate sides.

The butterfly image used here is perfectly symmetric, so the mirroring is not evident/necessary. In most cases it is very necessary. As was true for the Cardinal model at the top of this article and for the woodpecker example a little further down in here. It’s a step I have sometimes missed right up until I was about to send the job to the printer.

==Step 3: HueForge==

With the two images processed, it’s now time for HueForge. Here is a good place to start.

[[File:StainedGlassFig7.png|750px|thumb|center]]

A suggested starting point is to set Lithophane Blending Type at the upper left, the LED Light Type set to Cold White, the Base Layer and Min Depth set to 0.16 mm and just black and natural white in the sliders. I have found that good results are achieved with the layer height set to 0.08 mm, which lowers the print time. I also set the size to 150 by 150 mm once an image is loaded for the same reason, but those are personal choices.

The first slider is a natural filament set to one layer above the base, or 0.24 mm, which is especially useful where the base layer uses a natural (or nearly transparent filament) to minimize any color shifting or muting of the colors. For lithophanes, thinner tends to be better to let the light shine through. So, I suggest working with a Max Height around 1 to 1.5 mm.

Now comes the subjective part. Adding the colors to the image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig8.png|750px|thumb|center]]

I’ve chosen a blue and a navy blue and tested the addition of an aqua (fifth disabled slider) by enabling and disabling it to see what the effect was. I decided to stay with just the four filaments to fit in my AMS, but adding one more is not that difficult. If you are doing manual swaps, staying with the four filaments reduces the amount of babysitting needed to finish the print.

[[File:StainedGlassFig9.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

This butterfly image does not have large areas of white. However, if white is desired, there are two options. One is to just leave the areas as white, which are rendered as natural. The other is to specify a lower TD white filament in addition to the natural. In the first case, nothing special needs to be done, but know that the areas will likely be nearly transparent in the final print. If that is not the desired outcome, like in the breast and wing areas of the woodpecker print shown here, the areas to be rendered as white need to be recolored to differentiate them from the ones to be left natural. Paint the areas to be white a very faint gray in the image and then add the lower TD white in HueForge as a few layers above the initial base layer.

Notice the rendered mesh (on the left) does not have the same vibrancy of color as the original. However, my experience with version 0.7.2 is that it doesn’t represent the results of a lithophane perfectly. The actual prints tend to be a bit more colorful than they appear in the program. (I know the developer is aware of this and should address it in a later release, but not with version 0.8.0.)

Save this as a Part 1 project. Then do the same with the image of the second part.

[[File:StainedGlassFig10.png|750px|thumb|center]]

This is what it might look like with yellow and two reds, one low TD (>1) and one midlevel TD (4 – 5). The black is disabled, because I didn’t think it added anything important here. Again, yellow does not appear to fill spaces you might expect to see it in, but it will be there in the actual print. It is a minor failing of the current version of the program. My experience, even with my fairly high TD yellow is that it is much more apparent in the print than it appears here. It is possible a lower TD yellow, like Polylite Savannah Yellow, would give a somewhat more striking color.

[[File:StainedGlassFig11.png|400px|thumb|right]]

A review of the results above has revealed a potential problem that should be addressed before proceeding to printing. Specifically, neither of the parts has green color in it, but as noted earlier there are green areas in the original image. The plan was to color the individual parts in such a way that when joined the colors would blend to give green. However, a number of the areas in this second part are far too red. This is likely to end up too dark and not green, maybe a dark purple or even nearly black.

The solution is to preprocess these areas to lighten them so they present as a yellow, rather than red. The result should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig12.png|600px|thumb|center]]

Save this second project, say as Butterfly_Part_2.hfp.

==Step 4: Slicing and Printing==

I’m assuming readers are experienced with using their slicer of choice and have prepped a HueForge print at least a few times before. So, I’m not going to be too detailed in this part of the process. I’ll just touch on the basics and mention anything that might be unique about preparing these particular print jobs.

I’m using BambuStudio as my slicer and have chosen to load two build plates with the two parts, though they get sliced one at a time. (The warning messages can be ignored.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig13.png|750px|thumb|center]]

My HueForge specific 0.08 mm layer height slicing profile and procedures are used here. After the first slicing, use the information in the [Project name]_descibe.txt file of the first part to set the filament transitions.

After slicing a second time, it should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig14.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Once sliced, send it to the printer and if you are fortunate enough to have an AMS/MMU and it is loaded with the proper filaments you can go enjoy some other activity for a couple of hours.

When you return it is time to slice and repeat the process for the second part.

==Step 5: Assembling==

When both parts have been printed, it’s time to assemble the final model. Align the two parts back-to-back and be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the darker parts. I use some around the darkest parts and around the very edge to keep the glue from showing. If spread thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.

Here is the final result compared to the original image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig15.jpg|750px|thumb|left]][[File:StainedGlassFig16.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Hope this has helped explain the process sufficient to let you replicate the results with your chosen image. Have fun.

[[#How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane|Back to the top]]

Stained Glass

2026-04-28T20:12:16Z

Tlavedas: /* Step 1: Image Selection */

==How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane==

'''Tom Lavedas'''

[[File:Title.jpg|172px|thumb|right]]

==Introduction==

Note that this article uses the old, pre v0.9+ UI, but the concepts are mostly still valid. However, very recent updates in v0.9.3+ offer an alternate workflow to perform color separation within HueForge itself. I hope to update this article when time permits.

Since I developed the two-part HueForge stained glass colored lithophane technique with the creation of my first model, the Cardinal, people have asked for descriptions of how it’s done and for tutorial videos. Since I have no experience with video creation, I’ve decided to write an article to describe my process.

==Step 1: Image Selection==

The obvious first step is to select or create the image to be modeled. I have used Image Creator available as a tool in Microsoft’s latest Edge browser, which is not offered as a recommendation. It is just that it is free to use and it’s the one I have been using. The common prompt I have found useful is something like “[Desired object noun/phrase] in a simple stained glass styled medallion”

('''UPDATE:''' I find that offering a starting image of an interesting subject and asking an AI tool like Microsoft's Copilot to reimagine it as a stained-glass medallion often works better at getting the desired result.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig1.png|256px|thumb|right]]

For example, “Colorful butterfly in a simple stained glass styled medallion” yielded these possible choices. Next, select the one you like or think will look best in a print. Of these offerings, I think either the one in the upper right or lower left would work well. The one in the upper left is probably too busy to work well in this application and the one lower right is just weird.

One other consideration in making a choice is to consider the number of color families in the image. Colored lithophanes can only be done in one set of related color tones, like red/yellow or shades of blue or green. So, to get two or more tones, two separate parts are needed.

[[File:StainedGlassFig2.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]

Separating red/yellows from blues or greens is relatively straight forward, but getting the purple in the image at the lower left is more difficult. That is because purple straddles the red and blue color domains. Thus, it might require blending the two color families, one on each half of the two-part print that is needed for this approach. In addition, there are a number of greens in the image. Blending colors is possible of course, but the more blending required, the harder it is to get right. That is because, at this time HueForge does not directly support a visualization of the two halves together. Rather the designer needs to do that in their head and/or with a number of trial-and-error prints. Such visualization is on the app’s developmental roadmap, but will not be available in the near term.

For this discussion, we’ll stick with the image on the upper right.

While not quite as colorful as the one on the lower left, it should be easier to process and to get a good print result with.

==Step 2: Photo Processing==
[[File:StainedGlassFig3.png|256px|thumb|right]]

The next step is to preprocess the image in your favorite photo editor. I’m most familiar with paint.net at this writing, though I was recently gifted a copy of the Affinity application.

The first three operations in the photo editor are generally to crop the image to edges of the actual image, then to use the magic wand tool to erase/delete the background outside the boundary of the image and then to save it as a new PNG file type to support the now transparent background. So, it would look like this before starting to separate the colors.

Then the process of isolating one color family starts by painting areas to be removed with white. I find using the paint can tool for most parts to flood the areas surrounded by the black borders to be fairly quick and effective. Use a solid fill with a modest Tolerance setting. Adjust tolerance up or down as needed to keep from painting over colors that are to remain. I also tend to keep all of the boundary outlines in both parts. If they are dark black that is very easy. If they tend to be one or the other of the desired colors, like a dark blue, it can get trickier to set the right tolerance. I have sometimes found it necessary to redraw some boundaries in black, because the original coloring is too close to the one I was eliminating.
[[File:StainedGlassFig4.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Here is the first part with just the blues and greens remaining and is saved as Butterfly_Part_1.png. All of the yellow, creams and reds have been painted over. I did it bit by bit, though there are ways to set a global erasure. If done that way, introducing a white circle of the right size on a second layer behind the image and then flattening the image is another way that can be faster to fill for a lot of small areas. That approach requires the tolerance of the erasure to be properly managed. I also added a black mounting loop in the image before saving it.

Then use the original PNG image and repeat the process to eliminate the blue parts. In the process it might be advised to use the paint brush tool to eliminate bits of color floating in the middle of newly painted white areas.

[[File:StainedGlassFig5.png|200px|thumb|right]]

Though they should not affect the quality of the final print, they will add to the print time to lay down tiny dots of filament where they are not needed or wanted. Bits of the color being removed that are immediately adjacent to the dark borders need not be eliminated, though some larger areas might better be removed.

Here is the second part containing the reds and yellows, which share a common color domain.

[[File:StainedGlassFig6.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Those who are especially observant might notice that there are green regions in both the blue and red/yellow images. That’s because it's the plan to blend the two parts to create the green in the final model, even though no green filament will be used in either part.

One final part that is not obvious with this image is that it is usually necessary to mirror the second part before saving it. This is so the two printed parts can be attached back-to-back on their respective flat, build plate sides.

The butterfly image used here is perfectly symmetric, so the mirroring is not evident/necessary. In most cases it is very necessary. As was true for the Cardinal model at the top of this article and for the woodpecker example a little further down in here. It’s a step I have sometimes missed right up until I was about to send the job to the printer.

==Step 3: HueForge==

With the two images processed, it’s now time for HueForge. Here is a good place to start.

[[File:StainedGlassFig7.png|750px|thumb|center]]

A suggested starting point is to set Lithophane Blending Type at the upper left, the LED Light Type set to Cold White, the Base Layer and Min Depth set to 0.16 mm and just black and natural white in the sliders. I have found that good results are achieved with the layer height set to 0.08 mm, which lowers the print time. I also set the size to 150 by 150 mm once an image is loaded for the same reason, but those are personal choices.

The first slider is a natural filament set to one layer above the base, or 0.24 mm, which is especially useful where the base layer uses a natural (or nearly transparent filament) to minimize any color shifting or muting of the colors. For lithophanes, thinner tends to be better to let the light shine through. So, I suggest working with a Max Height around 1 to 1.5 mm.

Now comes the subjective part. Adding the colors to the image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig8.png|750px|thumb|center]]

I’ve chosen a blue and a navy blue and tested the addition of an aqua (fifth disabled slider) by enabling and disabling it to see what the effect was. I decided to stay with just the four filaments to fit in my AMS, but adding one more is not that difficult. If you are doing manual swaps, staying with the four filaments reduces the amount of babysitting needed to finish the print.

[[File:StainedGlassFig9.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

This butterfly image does not have large areas of white. However, if white is desired, there are two options. One is to just leave the areas as white, which are rendered as natural. The other is to specify a lower TD white filament in addition to the natural. In the first case, nothing special needs to be done, but know that the areas will likely be nearly transparent in the final print. If that is not the desired outcome, like in the breast and wing areas of the woodpecker print shown here, the areas to be rendered as white need to be recolored to differentiate them from the ones to be left natural. Paint the areas to be white a very faint gray in the image and then add the lower TD white in HueForge as a few layers above the initial base layer.

Notice the rendered mesh (on the left) does not have the same vibrancy of color as the original. However, my experience with version 0.7.2 is that it doesn’t represent the results of a lithophane perfectly. The actual prints tend to be a bit more colorful than they appear in the program. (I know the developer is aware of this and should address it in a later release, but not with version 0.8.0.)

Save this as a Part 1 project. Then do the same with the image of the second part.

[[File:StainedGlassFig10.png|750px|thumb|center]]

This is what it might look like with yellow and two reds, one low TD (>1) and one midlevel TD (4 – 5). The black is disabled, because I didn’t think it added anything important here. Again, yellow does not appear to fill spaces you might expect to see it in, but it will be there in the actual print. It is a minor failing of the current version of the program. My experience, even with my fairly high TD yellow is that it is much more apparent in the print than it appears here. It is possible a lower TD yellow, like Polylite Savannah Yellow, would give a somewhat more striking color.

[[File:StainedGlassFig11.png|400px|thumb|right]]

A review of the results above has revealed a potential problem that should be addressed before proceeding to printing. Specifically, neither of the parts has green color in it, but as noted earlier there are green areas in the original image. The plan was to color the individual parts in such a way that when joined the colors would blend to give green. However, a number of the areas in this second part are far too red. This is likely to end up too dark and not green, maybe a dark purple or even nearly black.

The solution is to preprocess these areas to lighten them so they present as a yellow, rather than red. The result should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig12.png|600px|thumb|center]]

Save this second project, say as Butterfly_Part_2.hfp.

==Step 4: Slicing and Printing==

I’m assuming readers are experienced with using their slicer of choice and have prepped a HueForge print at least a few times before. So, I’m not going to be too detailed in this part of the process. I’ll just touch on the basics and mention anything that might be unique about preparing these particular print jobs.

I’m using BambuStudio as my slicer and have chosen to load two build plates with the two parts, though they get sliced one at a time. (The warning messages can be ignored.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig13.png|750px|thumb|center]]

My HueForge specific 0.08 mm layer height slicing profile and procedures are used here. After the first slicing, use the information in the [Project name]_descibe.txt file of the first part to set the filament transitions.

After slicing a second time, it should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig14.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Once sliced, send it to the printer and if you are fortunate enough to have an AMS/MMU and it is loaded with the proper filaments you can go enjoy some other activity for a couple of hours.

When you return it is time to slice and repeat the process for the second part.

==Step 5: Assembling==

When both parts have been printed, it’s time to assemble the final model. Align the two parts back-to-back and be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the darker parts. I use some around the darkest parts and around the very edge to keep the glue from showing. If spread thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.

Here is the final result compared to the original image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig15.jpg|750px|thumb|left]][[File:StainedGlassFig16.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Hope this has helped explain the process sufficient to let you replicate the results with your chosen image. Have fun.

[[#How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane|Back to the top]]

Stained Glass

2026-04-28T20:11:59Z

Tlavedas: /* Step 1: Image Selection */

==How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane==

'''Tom Lavedas'''

[[File:Title.jpg|172px|thumb|right]]

==Introduction==

Note that this article uses the old, pre v0.9+ UI, but the concepts are mostly still valid. However, very recent updates in v0.9.3+ offer an alternate workflow to perform color separation within HueForge itself. I hope to update this article when time permits.

Since I developed the two-part HueForge stained glass colored lithophane technique with the creation of my first model, the Cardinal, people have asked for descriptions of how it’s done and for tutorial videos. Since I have no experience with video creation, I’ve decided to write an article to describe my process.

==Step 1: Image Selection==

The obvious first step is to select or create the image to be modeled. I have used Image Creator available as a tool in Microsoft’s latest Edge browser, which is not offered as a recommendation. It is just that it is free to use and it’s the one I have been using. The common prompt I have found useful is something like “[Desired object noun/phrase] in a simple stained glass styled medallion”

('''UPDATW:''' I find that offering a starting image of an interesting subject and asking an AI tool like Microsoft's Copilot to reimagine it as a stained-glass medallion often works better at getting the desired result.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig1.png|256px|thumb|right]]

For example, “Colorful butterfly in a simple stained glass styled medallion” yielded these possible choices. Next, select the one you like or think will look best in a print. Of these offerings, I think either the one in the upper right or lower left would work well. The one in the upper left is probably too busy to work well in this application and the one lower right is just weird.

One other consideration in making a choice is to consider the number of color families in the image. Colored lithophanes can only be done in one set of related color tones, like red/yellow or shades of blue or green. So, to get two or more tones, two separate parts are needed.

[[File:StainedGlassFig2.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]

Separating red/yellows from blues or greens is relatively straight forward, but getting the purple in the image at the lower left is more difficult. That is because purple straddles the red and blue color domains. Thus, it might require blending the two color families, one on each half of the two-part print that is needed for this approach. In addition, there are a number of greens in the image. Blending colors is possible of course, but the more blending required, the harder it is to get right. That is because, at this time HueForge does not directly support a visualization of the two halves together. Rather the designer needs to do that in their head and/or with a number of trial-and-error prints. Such visualization is on the app’s developmental roadmap, but will not be available in the near term.

For this discussion, we’ll stick with the image on the upper right.

While not quite as colorful as the one on the lower left, it should be easier to process and to get a good print result with.

==Step 2: Photo Processing==
[[File:StainedGlassFig3.png|256px|thumb|right]]

The next step is to preprocess the image in your favorite photo editor. I’m most familiar with paint.net at this writing, though I was recently gifted a copy of the Affinity application.

The first three operations in the photo editor are generally to crop the image to edges of the actual image, then to use the magic wand tool to erase/delete the background outside the boundary of the image and then to save it as a new PNG file type to support the now transparent background. So, it would look like this before starting to separate the colors.

Then the process of isolating one color family starts by painting areas to be removed with white. I find using the paint can tool for most parts to flood the areas surrounded by the black borders to be fairly quick and effective. Use a solid fill with a modest Tolerance setting. Adjust tolerance up or down as needed to keep from painting over colors that are to remain. I also tend to keep all of the boundary outlines in both parts. If they are dark black that is very easy. If they tend to be one or the other of the desired colors, like a dark blue, it can get trickier to set the right tolerance. I have sometimes found it necessary to redraw some boundaries in black, because the original coloring is too close to the one I was eliminating.
[[File:StainedGlassFig4.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Here is the first part with just the blues and greens remaining and is saved as Butterfly_Part_1.png. All of the yellow, creams and reds have been painted over. I did it bit by bit, though there are ways to set a global erasure. If done that way, introducing a white circle of the right size on a second layer behind the image and then flattening the image is another way that can be faster to fill for a lot of small areas. That approach requires the tolerance of the erasure to be properly managed. I also added a black mounting loop in the image before saving it.

Then use the original PNG image and repeat the process to eliminate the blue parts. In the process it might be advised to use the paint brush tool to eliminate bits of color floating in the middle of newly painted white areas.

[[File:StainedGlassFig5.png|200px|thumb|right]]

Though they should not affect the quality of the final print, they will add to the print time to lay down tiny dots of filament where they are not needed or wanted. Bits of the color being removed that are immediately adjacent to the dark borders need not be eliminated, though some larger areas might better be removed.

Here is the second part containing the reds and yellows, which share a common color domain.

[[File:StainedGlassFig6.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Those who are especially observant might notice that there are green regions in both the blue and red/yellow images. That’s because it's the plan to blend the two parts to create the green in the final model, even though no green filament will be used in either part.

One final part that is not obvious with this image is that it is usually necessary to mirror the second part before saving it. This is so the two printed parts can be attached back-to-back on their respective flat, build plate sides.

The butterfly image used here is perfectly symmetric, so the mirroring is not evident/necessary. In most cases it is very necessary. As was true for the Cardinal model at the top of this article and for the woodpecker example a little further down in here. It’s a step I have sometimes missed right up until I was about to send the job to the printer.

==Step 3: HueForge==

With the two images processed, it’s now time for HueForge. Here is a good place to start.

[[File:StainedGlassFig7.png|750px|thumb|center]]

A suggested starting point is to set Lithophane Blending Type at the upper left, the LED Light Type set to Cold White, the Base Layer and Min Depth set to 0.16 mm and just black and natural white in the sliders. I have found that good results are achieved with the layer height set to 0.08 mm, which lowers the print time. I also set the size to 150 by 150 mm once an image is loaded for the same reason, but those are personal choices.

The first slider is a natural filament set to one layer above the base, or 0.24 mm, which is especially useful where the base layer uses a natural (or nearly transparent filament) to minimize any color shifting or muting of the colors. For lithophanes, thinner tends to be better to let the light shine through. So, I suggest working with a Max Height around 1 to 1.5 mm.

Now comes the subjective part. Adding the colors to the image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig8.png|750px|thumb|center]]

I’ve chosen a blue and a navy blue and tested the addition of an aqua (fifth disabled slider) by enabling and disabling it to see what the effect was. I decided to stay with just the four filaments to fit in my AMS, but adding one more is not that difficult. If you are doing manual swaps, staying with the four filaments reduces the amount of babysitting needed to finish the print.

[[File:StainedGlassFig9.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

This butterfly image does not have large areas of white. However, if white is desired, there are two options. One is to just leave the areas as white, which are rendered as natural. The other is to specify a lower TD white filament in addition to the natural. In the first case, nothing special needs to be done, but know that the areas will likely be nearly transparent in the final print. If that is not the desired outcome, like in the breast and wing areas of the woodpecker print shown here, the areas to be rendered as white need to be recolored to differentiate them from the ones to be left natural. Paint the areas to be white a very faint gray in the image and then add the lower TD white in HueForge as a few layers above the initial base layer.

Notice the rendered mesh (on the left) does not have the same vibrancy of color as the original. However, my experience with version 0.7.2 is that it doesn’t represent the results of a lithophane perfectly. The actual prints tend to be a bit more colorful than they appear in the program. (I know the developer is aware of this and should address it in a later release, but not with version 0.8.0.)

Save this as a Part 1 project. Then do the same with the image of the second part.

[[File:StainedGlassFig10.png|750px|thumb|center]]

This is what it might look like with yellow and two reds, one low TD (>1) and one midlevel TD (4 – 5). The black is disabled, because I didn’t think it added anything important here. Again, yellow does not appear to fill spaces you might expect to see it in, but it will be there in the actual print. It is a minor failing of the current version of the program. My experience, even with my fairly high TD yellow is that it is much more apparent in the print than it appears here. It is possible a lower TD yellow, like Polylite Savannah Yellow, would give a somewhat more striking color.

[[File:StainedGlassFig11.png|400px|thumb|right]]

A review of the results above has revealed a potential problem that should be addressed before proceeding to printing. Specifically, neither of the parts has green color in it, but as noted earlier there are green areas in the original image. The plan was to color the individual parts in such a way that when joined the colors would blend to give green. However, a number of the areas in this second part are far too red. This is likely to end up too dark and not green, maybe a dark purple or even nearly black.

The solution is to preprocess these areas to lighten them so they present as a yellow, rather than red. The result should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig12.png|600px|thumb|center]]

Save this second project, say as Butterfly_Part_2.hfp.

==Step 4: Slicing and Printing==

I’m assuming readers are experienced with using their slicer of choice and have prepped a HueForge print at least a few times before. So, I’m not going to be too detailed in this part of the process. I’ll just touch on the basics and mention anything that might be unique about preparing these particular print jobs.

I’m using BambuStudio as my slicer and have chosen to load two build plates with the two parts, though they get sliced one at a time. (The warning messages can be ignored.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig13.png|750px|thumb|center]]

My HueForge specific 0.08 mm layer height slicing profile and procedures are used here. After the first slicing, use the information in the [Project name]_descibe.txt file of the first part to set the filament transitions.

After slicing a second time, it should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig14.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Once sliced, send it to the printer and if you are fortunate enough to have an AMS/MMU and it is loaded with the proper filaments you can go enjoy some other activity for a couple of hours.

When you return it is time to slice and repeat the process for the second part.

==Step 5: Assembling==

When both parts have been printed, it’s time to assemble the final model. Align the two parts back-to-back and be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the darker parts. I use some around the darkest parts and around the very edge to keep the glue from showing. If spread thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.

Here is the final result compared to the original image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig15.jpg|750px|thumb|left]][[File:StainedGlassFig16.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Hope this has helped explain the process sufficient to let you replicate the results with your chosen image. Have fun.

[[#How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane|Back to the top]]

Stained Glass

2026-04-28T20:11:04Z

Tlavedas: /* Step 1: Image Selection */

==How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane==

'''Tom Lavedas'''

[[File:Title.jpg|172px|thumb|right]]

==Introduction==

Note that this article uses the old, pre v0.9+ UI, but the concepts are mostly still valid. However, very recent updates in v0.9.3+ offer an alternate workflow to perform color separation within HueForge itself. I hope to update this article when time permits.

Since I developed the two-part HueForge stained glass colored lithophane technique with the creation of my first model, the Cardinal, people have asked for descriptions of how it’s done and for tutorial videos. Since I have no experience with video creation, I’ve decided to write an article to describe my process.

==Step 1: Image Selection==

The obvious first step is to select or create the image to be modeled. I have used Image Creator available as a tool in Microsoft’s latest Edge browser, which is not offered as a recommendation. It is just that it is free to use and it’s the one I have been using. The common prompt I have found useful is something like “[Desired object noun/phrase] in a simple stained glass styled medallion”

'''(I find that offering a starting image of an interesting subject and asking an AI tool like Microsoft's Copilot to reimagine it as a stained-glass medallion often works better at getting the desired result.)'''

[[File:StainedGlassFig1.png|256px|thumb|right]]

For example, “Colorful butterfly in a simple stained glass styled medallion” yielded these possible choices. Next, select the one you like or think will look best in a print. Of these offerings, I think either the one in the upper right or lower left would work well. The one in the upper left is probably too busy to work well in this application and the one lower right is just weird.

One other consideration in making a choice is to consider the number of color families in the image. Colored lithophanes can only be done in one set of related color tones, like red/yellow or shades of blue or green. So, to get two or more tones, two separate parts are needed.

[[File:StainedGlassFig2.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]

Separating red/yellows from blues or greens is relatively straight forward, but getting the purple in the image at the lower left is more difficult. That is because purple straddles the red and blue color domains. Thus, it might require blending the two color families, one on each half of the two-part print that is needed for this approach. In addition, there are a number of greens in the image. Blending colors is possible of course, but the more blending required, the harder it is to get right. That is because, at this time HueForge does not directly support a visualization of the two halves together. Rather the designer needs to do that in their head and/or with a number of trial-and-error prints. Such visualization is on the app’s developmental roadmap, but will not be available in the near term.

For this discussion, we’ll stick with the image on the upper right.

While not quite as colorful as the one on the lower left, it should be easier to process and to get a good print result with.

==Step 2: Photo Processing==
[[File:StainedGlassFig3.png|256px|thumb|right]]

The next step is to preprocess the image in your favorite photo editor. I’m most familiar with paint.net at this writing, though I was recently gifted a copy of the Affinity application.

The first three operations in the photo editor are generally to crop the image to edges of the actual image, then to use the magic wand tool to erase/delete the background outside the boundary of the image and then to save it as a new PNG file type to support the now transparent background. So, it would look like this before starting to separate the colors.

Then the process of isolating one color family starts by painting areas to be removed with white. I find using the paint can tool for most parts to flood the areas surrounded by the black borders to be fairly quick and effective. Use a solid fill with a modest Tolerance setting. Adjust tolerance up or down as needed to keep from painting over colors that are to remain. I also tend to keep all of the boundary outlines in both parts. If they are dark black that is very easy. If they tend to be one or the other of the desired colors, like a dark blue, it can get trickier to set the right tolerance. I have sometimes found it necessary to redraw some boundaries in black, because the original coloring is too close to the one I was eliminating.
[[File:StainedGlassFig4.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Here is the first part with just the blues and greens remaining and is saved as Butterfly_Part_1.png. All of the yellow, creams and reds have been painted over. I did it bit by bit, though there are ways to set a global erasure. If done that way, introducing a white circle of the right size on a second layer behind the image and then flattening the image is another way that can be faster to fill for a lot of small areas. That approach requires the tolerance of the erasure to be properly managed. I also added a black mounting loop in the image before saving it.

Then use the original PNG image and repeat the process to eliminate the blue parts. In the process it might be advised to use the paint brush tool to eliminate bits of color floating in the middle of newly painted white areas.

[[File:StainedGlassFig5.png|200px|thumb|right]]

Though they should not affect the quality of the final print, they will add to the print time to lay down tiny dots of filament where they are not needed or wanted. Bits of the color being removed that are immediately adjacent to the dark borders need not be eliminated, though some larger areas might better be removed.

Here is the second part containing the reds and yellows, which share a common color domain.

[[File:StainedGlassFig6.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Those who are especially observant might notice that there are green regions in both the blue and red/yellow images. That’s because it's the plan to blend the two parts to create the green in the final model, even though no green filament will be used in either part.

One final part that is not obvious with this image is that it is usually necessary to mirror the second part before saving it. This is so the two printed parts can be attached back-to-back on their respective flat, build plate sides.

The butterfly image used here is perfectly symmetric, so the mirroring is not evident/necessary. In most cases it is very necessary. As was true for the Cardinal model at the top of this article and for the woodpecker example a little further down in here. It’s a step I have sometimes missed right up until I was about to send the job to the printer.

==Step 3: HueForge==

With the two images processed, it’s now time for HueForge. Here is a good place to start.

[[File:StainedGlassFig7.png|750px|thumb|center]]

A suggested starting point is to set Lithophane Blending Type at the upper left, the LED Light Type set to Cold White, the Base Layer and Min Depth set to 0.16 mm and just black and natural white in the sliders. I have found that good results are achieved with the layer height set to 0.08 mm, which lowers the print time. I also set the size to 150 by 150 mm once an image is loaded for the same reason, but those are personal choices.

The first slider is a natural filament set to one layer above the base, or 0.24 mm, which is especially useful where the base layer uses a natural (or nearly transparent filament) to minimize any color shifting or muting of the colors. For lithophanes, thinner tends to be better to let the light shine through. So, I suggest working with a Max Height around 1 to 1.5 mm.

Now comes the subjective part. Adding the colors to the image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig8.png|750px|thumb|center]]

I’ve chosen a blue and a navy blue and tested the addition of an aqua (fifth disabled slider) by enabling and disabling it to see what the effect was. I decided to stay with just the four filaments to fit in my AMS, but adding one more is not that difficult. If you are doing manual swaps, staying with the four filaments reduces the amount of babysitting needed to finish the print.

[[File:StainedGlassFig9.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

This butterfly image does not have large areas of white. However, if white is desired, there are two options. One is to just leave the areas as white, which are rendered as natural. The other is to specify a lower TD white filament in addition to the natural. In the first case, nothing special needs to be done, but know that the areas will likely be nearly transparent in the final print. If that is not the desired outcome, like in the breast and wing areas of the woodpecker print shown here, the areas to be rendered as white need to be recolored to differentiate them from the ones to be left natural. Paint the areas to be white a very faint gray in the image and then add the lower TD white in HueForge as a few layers above the initial base layer.

Notice the rendered mesh (on the left) does not have the same vibrancy of color as the original. However, my experience with version 0.7.2 is that it doesn’t represent the results of a lithophane perfectly. The actual prints tend to be a bit more colorful than they appear in the program. (I know the developer is aware of this and should address it in a later release, but not with version 0.8.0.)

Save this as a Part 1 project. Then do the same with the image of the second part.

[[File:StainedGlassFig10.png|750px|thumb|center]]

This is what it might look like with yellow and two reds, one low TD (>1) and one midlevel TD (4 – 5). The black is disabled, because I didn’t think it added anything important here. Again, yellow does not appear to fill spaces you might expect to see it in, but it will be there in the actual print. It is a minor failing of the current version of the program. My experience, even with my fairly high TD yellow is that it is much more apparent in the print than it appears here. It is possible a lower TD yellow, like Polylite Savannah Yellow, would give a somewhat more striking color.

[[File:StainedGlassFig11.png|400px|thumb|right]]

A review of the results above has revealed a potential problem that should be addressed before proceeding to printing. Specifically, neither of the parts has green color in it, but as noted earlier there are green areas in the original image. The plan was to color the individual parts in such a way that when joined the colors would blend to give green. However, a number of the areas in this second part are far too red. This is likely to end up too dark and not green, maybe a dark purple or even nearly black.

The solution is to preprocess these areas to lighten them so they present as a yellow, rather than red. The result should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig12.png|600px|thumb|center]]

Save this second project, say as Butterfly_Part_2.hfp.

==Step 4: Slicing and Printing==

I’m assuming readers are experienced with using their slicer of choice and have prepped a HueForge print at least a few times before. So, I’m not going to be too detailed in this part of the process. I’ll just touch on the basics and mention anything that might be unique about preparing these particular print jobs.

I’m using BambuStudio as my slicer and have chosen to load two build plates with the two parts, though they get sliced one at a time. (The warning messages can be ignored.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig13.png|750px|thumb|center]]

My HueForge specific 0.08 mm layer height slicing profile and procedures are used here. After the first slicing, use the information in the [Project name]_descibe.txt file of the first part to set the filament transitions.

After slicing a second time, it should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig14.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Once sliced, send it to the printer and if you are fortunate enough to have an AMS/MMU and it is loaded with the proper filaments you can go enjoy some other activity for a couple of hours.

When you return it is time to slice and repeat the process for the second part.

==Step 5: Assembling==

When both parts have been printed, it’s time to assemble the final model. Align the two parts back-to-back and be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the darker parts. I use some around the darkest parts and around the very edge to keep the glue from showing. If spread thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.

Here is the final result compared to the original image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig15.jpg|750px|thumb|left]][[File:StainedGlassFig16.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Hope this has helped explain the process sufficient to let you replicate the results with your chosen image. Have fun.

[[#How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane|Back to the top]]

Stained Glass

2026-04-28T20:06:52Z

Tlavedas: /* Introduction */

==How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane==

'''Tom Lavedas'''

[[File:Title.jpg|172px|thumb|right]]

==Introduction==

Note that this article uses the old, pre v0.9+ UI, but the concepts are mostly still valid. However, very recent updates in v0.9.3+ offer an alternate workflow to perform color separation within HueForge itself. I hope to update this article when time permits.

Since I developed the two-part HueForge stained glass colored lithophane technique with the creation of my first model, the Cardinal, people have asked for descriptions of how it’s done and for tutorial videos. Since I have no experience with video creation, I’ve decided to write an article to describe my process.

==Step 1: Image Selection==

The obvious first step is to select or create the image to be modeled. I have used Image Creator available as a tool in Microsoft’s latest Edge browser, which is not offered as a recommendation. It is just that it is free to use and it’s the one I have been using. The common prompt I have found useful is something like “[Desired object noun/phrase] in a simple stained glass styled medallion”

[[File:StainedGlassFig1.png|256px|thumb|right]]

For example, “Colorful butterfly in a simple stained glass styled medallion” yielded these possible choices. Next, select the one you like or think will look best in a print. Of these offerings, I think either the one in the upper right or lower left would work well. The one in the upper left is probably too busy to work well in this application and the one lower right is just weird.

One other consideration in making a choice is to consider the number of color families in the image. Colored lithophanes can only be done in one set of related color tones, like red/yellow or shades of blue or green. So, to get two or more tones, two separate parts are needed.

[[File:StainedGlassFig2.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]

Separating red/yellows from blues or greens is relatively straight forward, but getting the purple in the image at the lower left is more difficult. That is because purple straddles the red and blue color domains. Thus, it might require blending the two color families, one on each half of the two-part print that is needed for this approach. In addition, there are a number of greens in the image. Blending colors is possible of course, but the more blending required, the harder it is to get right. That is because, at this time HueForge does not directly support a visualization of the two halves together. Rather the designer needs to do that in their head and/or with a number of trial-and-error prints. Such visualization is on the app’s developmental roadmap, but will not be available in the near term.

For this discussion, we’ll stick with the image on the upper right.

While not quite as colorful as the one on the lower left, it should be easier to process and to get a good print result with.

==Step 2: Photo Processing==
[[File:StainedGlassFig3.png|256px|thumb|right]]

The next step is to preprocess the image in your favorite photo editor. I’m most familiar with paint.net at this writing, though I was recently gifted a copy of the Affinity application.

The first three operations in the photo editor are generally to crop the image to edges of the actual image, then to use the magic wand tool to erase/delete the background outside the boundary of the image and then to save it as a new PNG file type to support the now transparent background. So, it would look like this before starting to separate the colors.

Then the process of isolating one color family starts by painting areas to be removed with white. I find using the paint can tool for most parts to flood the areas surrounded by the black borders to be fairly quick and effective. Use a solid fill with a modest Tolerance setting. Adjust tolerance up or down as needed to keep from painting over colors that are to remain. I also tend to keep all of the boundary outlines in both parts. If they are dark black that is very easy. If they tend to be one or the other of the desired colors, like a dark blue, it can get trickier to set the right tolerance. I have sometimes found it necessary to redraw some boundaries in black, because the original coloring is too close to the one I was eliminating.
[[File:StainedGlassFig4.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Here is the first part with just the blues and greens remaining and is saved as Butterfly_Part_1.png. All of the yellow, creams and reds have been painted over. I did it bit by bit, though there are ways to set a global erasure. If done that way, introducing a white circle of the right size on a second layer behind the image and then flattening the image is another way that can be faster to fill for a lot of small areas. That approach requires the tolerance of the erasure to be properly managed. I also added a black mounting loop in the image before saving it.

Then use the original PNG image and repeat the process to eliminate the blue parts. In the process it might be advised to use the paint brush tool to eliminate bits of color floating in the middle of newly painted white areas.

[[File:StainedGlassFig5.png|200px|thumb|right]]

Though they should not affect the quality of the final print, they will add to the print time to lay down tiny dots of filament where they are not needed or wanted. Bits of the color being removed that are immediately adjacent to the dark borders need not be eliminated, though some larger areas might better be removed.

Here is the second part containing the reds and yellows, which share a common color domain.

[[File:StainedGlassFig6.png|256px|thumb|right]]

Those who are especially observant might notice that there are green regions in both the blue and red/yellow images. That’s because it's the plan to blend the two parts to create the green in the final model, even though no green filament will be used in either part.

One final part that is not obvious with this image is that it is usually necessary to mirror the second part before saving it. This is so the two printed parts can be attached back-to-back on their respective flat, build plate sides.

The butterfly image used here is perfectly symmetric, so the mirroring is not evident/necessary. In most cases it is very necessary. As was true for the Cardinal model at the top of this article and for the woodpecker example a little further down in here. It’s a step I have sometimes missed right up until I was about to send the job to the printer.

==Step 3: HueForge==

With the two images processed, it’s now time for HueForge. Here is a good place to start.

[[File:StainedGlassFig7.png|750px|thumb|center]]

A suggested starting point is to set Lithophane Blending Type at the upper left, the LED Light Type set to Cold White, the Base Layer and Min Depth set to 0.16 mm and just black and natural white in the sliders. I have found that good results are achieved with the layer height set to 0.08 mm, which lowers the print time. I also set the size to 150 by 150 mm once an image is loaded for the same reason, but those are personal choices.

The first slider is a natural filament set to one layer above the base, or 0.24 mm, which is especially useful where the base layer uses a natural (or nearly transparent filament) to minimize any color shifting or muting of the colors. For lithophanes, thinner tends to be better to let the light shine through. So, I suggest working with a Max Height around 1 to 1.5 mm.

Now comes the subjective part. Adding the colors to the image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig8.png|750px|thumb|center]]

I’ve chosen a blue and a navy blue and tested the addition of an aqua (fifth disabled slider) by enabling and disabling it to see what the effect was. I decided to stay with just the four filaments to fit in my AMS, but adding one more is not that difficult. If you are doing manual swaps, staying with the four filaments reduces the amount of babysitting needed to finish the print.

[[File:StainedGlassFig9.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

This butterfly image does not have large areas of white. However, if white is desired, there are two options. One is to just leave the areas as white, which are rendered as natural. The other is to specify a lower TD white filament in addition to the natural. In the first case, nothing special needs to be done, but know that the areas will likely be nearly transparent in the final print. If that is not the desired outcome, like in the breast and wing areas of the woodpecker print shown here, the areas to be rendered as white need to be recolored to differentiate them from the ones to be left natural. Paint the areas to be white a very faint gray in the image and then add the lower TD white in HueForge as a few layers above the initial base layer.

Notice the rendered mesh (on the left) does not have the same vibrancy of color as the original. However, my experience with version 0.7.2 is that it doesn’t represent the results of a lithophane perfectly. The actual prints tend to be a bit more colorful than they appear in the program. (I know the developer is aware of this and should address it in a later release, but not with version 0.8.0.)

Save this as a Part 1 project. Then do the same with the image of the second part.

[[File:StainedGlassFig10.png|750px|thumb|center]]

This is what it might look like with yellow and two reds, one low TD (>1) and one midlevel TD (4 – 5). The black is disabled, because I didn’t think it added anything important here. Again, yellow does not appear to fill spaces you might expect to see it in, but it will be there in the actual print. It is a minor failing of the current version of the program. My experience, even with my fairly high TD yellow is that it is much more apparent in the print than it appears here. It is possible a lower TD yellow, like Polylite Savannah Yellow, would give a somewhat more striking color.

[[File:StainedGlassFig11.png|400px|thumb|right]]

A review of the results above has revealed a potential problem that should be addressed before proceeding to printing. Specifically, neither of the parts has green color in it, but as noted earlier there are green areas in the original image. The plan was to color the individual parts in such a way that when joined the colors would blend to give green. However, a number of the areas in this second part are far too red. This is likely to end up too dark and not green, maybe a dark purple or even nearly black.

The solution is to preprocess these areas to lighten them so they present as a yellow, rather than red. The result should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig12.png|600px|thumb|center]]

Save this second project, say as Butterfly_Part_2.hfp.

==Step 4: Slicing and Printing==

I’m assuming readers are experienced with using their slicer of choice and have prepped a HueForge print at least a few times before. So, I’m not going to be too detailed in this part of the process. I’ll just touch on the basics and mention anything that might be unique about preparing these particular print jobs.

I’m using BambuStudio as my slicer and have chosen to load two build plates with the two parts, though they get sliced one at a time. (The warning messages can be ignored.)

[[File:StainedGlassFig13.png|750px|thumb|center]]

My HueForge specific 0.08 mm layer height slicing profile and procedures are used here. After the first slicing, use the information in the [Project name]_descibe.txt file of the first part to set the filament transitions.

After slicing a second time, it should look something like this.

[[File:StainedGlassFig14.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Once sliced, send it to the printer and if you are fortunate enough to have an AMS/MMU and it is loaded with the proper filaments you can go enjoy some other activity for a couple of hours.

When you return it is time to slice and repeat the process for the second part.

==Step 5: Assembling==

When both parts have been printed, it’s time to assemble the final model. Align the two parts back-to-back and be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the darker parts. I use some around the darkest parts and around the very edge to keep the glue from showing. If spread thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.

Here is the final result compared to the original image.

[[File:StainedGlassFig15.jpg|750px|thumb|left]][[File:StainedGlassFig16.png|750px|thumb|center]]

Hope this has helped explain the process sufficient to let you replicate the results with your chosen image. Have fun.

[[#How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane|Back to the top]]

Color Match

2026-01-30T15:23:49Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==
[Major revision, Jan 1 2026]

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Shift key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable in a drop down at the bottom of the image (right) pane. (A development version might move it to the Mesh Mode tool bar.) It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting which is often the best selection. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
#To get a good color match, it can be beneficial to insert a LOT of individual image colors on the Mesh Core for some images. You do not need to copy them all over to the Color Core and can often simplify them to a lot fewer colors. The purpose of the extra colors on the Mesh Core is just to aid with strong matching.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview and if they are at the top of the mesh the model will not include the upper saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

FAQ

2026-01-21T19:05:46Z

Tlavedas: /* Q: What do the sliders do? */

This FAQ covers operational questions and assumes the use of all versions. Details might not apply for later versions unless specifically noted. Some details might not apply to earlier version of the application. It does not address questions about purchasing, downloading or upgrading the software. For such questions, please see the [https://shop.thehueforge.com/pages/faq| Store FAQ]

==Q: Do I need an AMS/MMU to print HueForge designs?==

A: NO! Though an AMS/MMU makes printing easier, the application is specifically designed to have only one color per layer, so ANY printer capable of pausing for a filament swap can reproduce a HueForge print.

If you are using an AMS/MMU, you might find the information below about [[#Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?| using more than four colors]] useful.

==Q: What is TD and why do I care?==

A: TD is short for transmission distance and is a measure of how much light penetrates a filament. It is used to calculate the amount of color blending that occurs between layers of filament so the application can predict resulting colors properly.

==Q: Can I use my own filament that’s not listed in the filament library?==

A: Yes, of course. However, all filament needs to be properly characterized by its RGB number (hex) and its transmission distance (TD). HueForge uses this to provide an accurate prediction of the resulting print. Filament data can be added to the library as Owned by clicking New Filament and saving to the library for future reference. Note: Clicking the checkbox next to a filament that is in the Unowned library moves it to the Owned library (press Save Library for future use).

==Q: How do I get the TD value for a filament?==

A: HueForge has a large library of filaments, from various companies (like BambuLabs, Esun, Fillamentum, Overture, IIID Max, Numakers, Paramount 3D, Polymaker, Protopasta, Sunlu and others). Additional filaments and makers are being added as they become available.

However, if yours is not already in the library, there are several ways to determine the TD of a filament. These include printing a small two-color sample, searching social media sites for published community supported filament databases or directly measuring it using the recently released sensor, the TD-1, from Ajax-3D.

Printing a two-color sample using a filament with a known TD (generally black or white) under the one being tested is a common way to get the TD value of a filament. Various samples have been proposed and used recently; however, it is now suggested to use the Seashell_Test.hfp found in the HueForge/Tools folder to determine the TD of the filament. "The Seashell Method.PDF" file in the folder describes how to use this technique. See [[#Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?]].

If you are in the Discord HueForge group (invite comes with your purchase) go to we-share-seashells for pictures of seashells users have printed to gauge the TD. You can also post a picture of the finished model in ⁠we-share-seashells and ask for others to help read its TD.

Some examples of community filament databases: At Reddit [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BockVJQx3yfiFaum9rRFb2mBHVHLkMRyPEzAyllH2oo/edit?usp=sharing], Google Drive [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WwymQwgA7_RYrXVKVlcgW4w-c1B9WARKermkprmaewM/htmlview?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR17iZXaK2ntRw7t8ZnRpf1yB0FQe4Y0XyCtPoIjvL-yG9hyCCEY6LtD-2I_aem_Aa0otIfLkeWjGFHNycimOTX40YJAB8xBWQUWabjL1U4EfWN13-K5Txb-HBx-Tgy9--GHx2YFXkNqzM4V52vRX2Fq], TBD

The TD-1 is a sensor device designed and provided through Ajax-3D that integrates directly with HueForge to read the TD of a filament inserted into it and to estimate its RGB value. More information is available at his website: [https://ajax-3d.com/]

==Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?==

A: To save distribution file size, the needed STL is not provided. Instead, open the Seashell_Test.hfp project and save it to create an STL. Load the STL in your slicer and set 0.08mm layer heights, black for your first color and the single swap to your test color at 0.56mm (using a height range modifier to print at 0.16mm up to 0.48mm saves time). If you want, you can test your color by substituting the white in HueForge with your color under test and adjust the TD of that filament to match what the printed model looks like - or you can try comparing it to the pictures in the PDF file. The single STL model can be reused to test any color by substituting it for the second color when printing the model.

==Q: What filaments do I want/need to do HueForge prints?==

A: To start it is good to have a black and TWO whites, one with a medium TD (around 4 or 5) and one with a TD less than 2. Then for good gray-scale images a light and a darker gray are useful, though on a budget one gray can give good results.

When planning color projects, it is most useful to have reds, blues, greens, yellows and maybe a brown as well. Remember that color blending is the name of the game with HueForge, so it is not absolutely necessary to have all of the colors and shades present in an image to get some stunning results.

However, as skill is gained it might be necessary to consider having two different versions of very similar colors, one with a low TD and one with a reasonably high TD. In particular, this is most true for white, where three levels of TD might be considered: one low, one mid-range and one high. The mid-range works for most images, where the low TD can be used as the last layer or two to get some “pop” in the whites where appropriate. The high TD white is often useful in muting a color or changing its tone, like shading in an otherwise blue sky.

Without a doubt, one disadvantage of owning (and using) HueForge is that you WILL want more colors of filament than you ever imagined you would.

==Q: Why Can't I Save My Filament Library?==

A: Since HueForge is not an installer, you must have directory permissions to write into the Filament directory. C:\Program Files and C:\Program Files (x86) are protected directories and Windows will not allow writing into them. Documents or simply C:\HueForge or C:\Programs\HueForge will work.

==Q: What do the sliders do?==

A: '''Note:''' Starting with version 0.9.0 the slider dock is turned off be default, because all of their functionality is provided on the Color Core. The dock can be opened using the Windows menu item, if desired.

The sliders (bottom left panel on the default screen of versions before 0.9.0) are a means of adding to and adjusting the colors (filaments) in a HueForge design.

Dragging a filament from the library panel (left side of the screen) and dropping it onto the Color Core (or a slider) makes it available for use in the design. Colors can be added to any used flag on the Color Core (or slider) to replace a color. Note that right clicking on a flag (or slider) opens a dialog menu that can also be used modify a color and/or a filament.

The primary means of adjusting the colors in the model, starting with version 0.9.0, is by moving flags on the Color and or Mesh cores. Pressing the space bar while hovering over a flag acts to disable that color. Pressing Z while hovering moves that color to zero height. Pressing DEL deletes it from the model.

The following explanations only apply if using the slider dock:

Moving a slider up causes that color to be added to the design up to (but not including) the layer number shown immediately below the slider. The number of layers of that color is the difference of the layer shown and that of the next lower slider (which may or may not be to the left of the slider being moved).

Slider heights do not need to progress upward from left to right, though it can be helpful to have them ordered that way. The Reorder Sliders button is used to resort the sliders into that sequence.

Moving a slider to a zero-layer height removes it from placement in the model, but not from the slider. Another way to do this is to click the layer number box, which toggles that slider to remove that color from inclusion in the model or to restore it to use. This method leaves the layer height unchanged.

The number of layers of a particular filament is the difference of that filament’s layer height and the height of the next lower filament. That is, the slider numbers represent where filaments end, not the total number of layers used in a print.

==Q: Does HueForge create the Gcode to send to the printer?==

A: No, Hueforge saves the project in four files, generally to a folder named HueForge/Projects. These are the [Project_name].HFP file, a copy of the original image with the same name as the project, a [Project_name].STL file of the geometry model, and a [Project_name]_describe.txt file with the information about the filaments and layer change information to be used in your favorite slicer.

==Q: I’ve had success with a grayscale print, but as soon as I try to add color everything goes south. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it?==

A: Adding colors to a HueForge image isn’t always straightforward. One way to learn how to manage colors is to use the examples provided in the HueForge/Projects folder. Load them and examine the sliders and other settings to see how the results were achieved. Then nudge sliders and other controls to see their effects. Then try loading one of your images that has similar colors in place of the original and see how it looks. This is especially true for modes like Color Pop (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?]] for additional information) and Color Aware (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?]] for additional information).

Additional information on how to use Color Pop and Color Aware is available [[How To Pages|here]]. There are also several video tutorials by HueForge [https://www.youtube.com/@hueforging] and others available on YouTube [https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hueforge].

==Q: How do I select filaments/colors to match my image?==

A: Right clicking on a point in the source image in HueForge opens a dialog menu with two choices; Find Closest Filament or Create New Filament. Selecting the first-choice sorts both Owned and Unowned filament libraries to place the filaments in nearest color order. If an Owned filament color is not acceptable a filament near the top of the Unowned list can be tested to see if it provides a better match.

Unowned filament items can be tested in the design to see how they perform without any obligation to purchase them. If you want to find a source of that filament right-clicking on color swatches that have a triangle cutout on the lower right will open a dialog with a Buy Filament option that takes you to an affiliated sales portal of that filament’s provider.

==Q: I'm new to HueForge and I think I've done everything correctly. But in the slicer there is only black?==

A: HueForge output contains the description of which filaments/colors were selected and what layers those colors occupy. However, it does NOT build a 3mf slicer file, because they are not fully standardized between slicer applications at this time. Rather, it is your job to define the filaments and the layers (height) at which a swap is required. This information is available in the [Project_Name]_describe.txt file that is created when the project (Project_Name) is saved.

==Q: How do I make my print thicker so it’s not so floppy?==

A: The easiest way to do this is to increase the value of Base Height in HueForge (or both the Min and Max depths in versions before 0.9.0 by an equal amount). Then to speed printing, the layer heights of the part of the print up to the Min depth can be increased to reduce the number of layers. This is called a Height Range Modifier in some slicers (not variable height). If it is used, the color changes are added at the layer height in millimeters, rather than the layer number.

==Q: I'm trying to do a print with a transparent background, but there is a rectangle where it should be blank in the slicer. How do I fix this?==

A: That is the [[Common_Terms]] Lazy Programmer Rectangle (LPR). It is a set of zero height triangles that disappears when sliced. In version 0.9.2.3 there is an Advanced Save option that makes it possible to specify the model be saved without the LPR.

==Q: Can I turn the print over to make it completely flat?==

A: No, not in standard Hueforge, because HueForge designs have only one color per layer. It often uses more than one layer of the same color, but a flat print would need more than one color per layer to produce the image. However, since the prints are generally thin, in most applications the surface texture is generally not a problem, even for things like coasters. And in other applications, like faux materials, the added texture gives an added sense of realism to the end product.

'''However''', an extra cost plugin, called FlatForge, is now available at the [https://shop.thehueforge.com| store] that enables printing flat HueForge prints - facedown (to take advantage of a special patterned print bed), double-sided or face up.

==Q: Will it hurt anything for me to scale up/down the model (STL) file in the slicer?==
A: Scaling the model up or down in HueForge is the best approach. However, if you just need to do a small adjustment (say 10-15%), it can be done in the slicer for the X and Y dimensions, only. Do NOT scale the Z axis as it changes layer heights, which adversely affects the color blending.

==Q: Do I need a purge tower with HueForge prints?==

a: In a word, NO. Because a HueForge print intentionally blends filament colors to create the image, a little overlap of the previous color will be unrecognizable in the final print. Save the time and filament by turning off the purge tower.

==Q: How do I print with more than four colors when I only have one AMS?==

A: You can swap filaments during the print in your single AMS, though you have to be sure not to miss the swap. So, either add pauses, or pull the fourth color that is going to print after the print is started (once the printer starts doing ANYTHING after the model is loaded). Add the extra filaments in the slicer. When you start the print and it asks you where to map the filaments, you select the correct slots (say fifth color in slot 1, sixth in slot 2, etc.).

Note: Pulling the fourth color is probably preferred, because if you ARE there to reload it, putting the color back in means the print will not pause at all.

==Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?==

A: Pictures with one region of color over a monochrome background benefit from the Color Pop mode. This mode stacks two color spectra one on top of the other. This puts the background of the image on the bottom of the print and the colored part above the background.

The original version of HueForge required breaking the image into separate images that were then joined after printing to accomplish this. This newer mode merges the process into one workflow within HueForge. Think of it as stacking two HueForged designs on top of each other. To do this it is necessary to define each region from dark to light, most often by duplicating the black and white filaments, once in the lower grayscale region and the second set to define the boundaries of the upper colored region.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Pop|Color Pop mode is available here]].

==Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?==

A: As with Color Pop, Color Aware is sometimes the best way to get the needed color separation that a project demands. This is often the case when the image contains two or three dominant colors but few greyscale areas. Like Color Pop, Color Aware reproduces the color spectrum multiple times one on top of the other.

The difference is that instead of separating grayscale from color, Color Aware separates levels by the primary RGB colors: red, blue and green. Control is provided to expand or contract the color levels based on a particular project’s needs.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Aware|Color Aware mode is available here]].

==Q: Can HueForge be used to make lithophanes? If so, how is it done?==

A: Yes, before its release Hueforge started out as a tool to help produce colored lithophanes. Selecting Blending Type > Lithophanes in the appropriate tool bar enters that operational mode. Monochrome lithophanes with cool colors (blues or greens) OR warm colors (reds/yellows) are easily developed, but full spectrum images need special treatment discussed in some detail in the article [[Stained_Glass| How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane]].

==Q: Why when I port my HueForge into my slicer and add the filament swaps, it seems to not work with color?==

A: The view in the slicer certainly looks different from the HueForge window, because the slicer doesn't know how to blend colors. Clicking on "Slicer View" in HueForge will reveal more or less what the slicer will show.

==Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?==

A: Not at all. The BambuLab AMS allows you to 'hot swap' spools while printing. If you have a five colour print, you can take out the first spool in the AMS once it has completed printing and replace it with the fifth spool. As long as you have told the slicer that the first spool and the fifth spool occupy the same slot in the AMS, you will be perfectly fine!

==Q: Why is my Export STL Option Grayed Out?==

A: You have loaded an STL file as your input (most often the TD_Step_Test.stl). As such, there is no STL output to export, you already have it. HueForge does not modify pre-existing STL files.

==Q: Why when I have a transparent image there is still a rectangle in the slicer?==

A: Two options here - first, make sure your image is ACTUALLY transparent. If you don't see the checkboard behind the image itself, it isn't transparent. Second, if it really is transparent, then it's the result of the "Lazy Programmer Rectangle". That is, a zero-height region that disappears when sliced.

==Q: Why do I have different number of layers between the HueForge program and the slicer?==

A: Assuming you have matched the first layer height and other layer heights in the slicer correctly as they were in Hueforge, the most common reason this happens, especially if the layer is off by one or two layers (HueForge says you should have 10 but the slicer says you have 9 layers) is because the image has tall spikes of colours that appear unprintable in the slicer. Portions of the image that are generally thinner than your line width will be ignored by the slicer and therefore will have one or two fewer layers than what HueForge expects due to these spikes. This video helps explain this occurrence: [https://youtu.be/w8udIPVC80g| HELP! Why Doesn't my Mesh Height Match!?]

FAQ

2026-01-21T19:03:04Z

Tlavedas: /* Q: Can I turn the print over to make it completely flat? */

This FAQ covers operational questions and assumes the use of all versions. Details might not apply for later versions unless specifically noted. Some details might not apply to earlier version of the application. It does not address questions about purchasing, downloading or upgrading the software. For such questions, please see the [https://shop.thehueforge.com/pages/faq| Store FAQ]

==Q: Do I need an AMS/MMU to print HueForge designs?==

A: NO! Though an AMS/MMU makes printing easier, the application is specifically designed to have only one color per layer, so ANY printer capable of pausing for a filament swap can reproduce a HueForge print.

If you are using an AMS/MMU, you might find the information below about [[#Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?| using more than four colors]] useful.

==Q: What is TD and why do I care?==

A: TD is short for transmission distance and is a measure of how much light penetrates a filament. It is used to calculate the amount of color blending that occurs between layers of filament so the application can predict resulting colors properly.

==Q: Can I use my own filament that’s not listed in the filament library?==

A: Yes, of course. However, all filament needs to be properly characterized by its RGB number (hex) and its transmission distance (TD). HueForge uses this to provide an accurate prediction of the resulting print. Filament data can be added to the library as Owned by clicking New Filament and saving to the library for future reference. Note: Clicking the checkbox next to a filament that is in the Unowned library moves it to the Owned library (press Save Library for future use).

==Q: How do I get the TD value for a filament?==

A: HueForge has a large library of filaments, from various companies (like BambuLabs, Esun, Fillamentum, Overture, IIID Max, Numakers, Paramount 3D, Polymaker, Protopasta, Sunlu and others). Additional filaments and makers are being added as they become available.

However, if yours is not already in the library, there are several ways to determine the TD of a filament. These include printing a small two-color sample, searching social media sites for published community supported filament databases or directly measuring it using the recently released sensor, the TD-1, from Ajax-3D.

Printing a two-color sample using a filament with a known TD (generally black or white) under the one being tested is a common way to get the TD value of a filament. Various samples have been proposed and used recently; however, it is now suggested to use the Seashell_Test.hfp found in the HueForge/Tools folder to determine the TD of the filament. "The Seashell Method.PDF" file in the folder describes how to use this technique. See [[#Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?]].

If you are in the Discord HueForge group (invite comes with your purchase) go to we-share-seashells for pictures of seashells users have printed to gauge the TD. You can also post a picture of the finished model in ⁠we-share-seashells and ask for others to help read its TD.

Some examples of community filament databases: At Reddit [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BockVJQx3yfiFaum9rRFb2mBHVHLkMRyPEzAyllH2oo/edit?usp=sharing], Google Drive [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WwymQwgA7_RYrXVKVlcgW4w-c1B9WARKermkprmaewM/htmlview?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR17iZXaK2ntRw7t8ZnRpf1yB0FQe4Y0XyCtPoIjvL-yG9hyCCEY6LtD-2I_aem_Aa0otIfLkeWjGFHNycimOTX40YJAB8xBWQUWabjL1U4EfWN13-K5Txb-HBx-Tgy9--GHx2YFXkNqzM4V52vRX2Fq], TBD

The TD-1 is a sensor device designed and provided through Ajax-3D that integrates directly with HueForge to read the TD of a filament inserted into it and to estimate its RGB value. More information is available at his website: [https://ajax-3d.com/]

==Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?==

A: To save distribution file size, the needed STL is not provided. Instead, open the Seashell_Test.hfp project and save it to create an STL. Load the STL in your slicer and set 0.08mm layer heights, black for your first color and the single swap to your test color at 0.56mm (using a height range modifier to print at 0.16mm up to 0.48mm saves time). If you want, you can test your color by substituting the white in HueForge with your color under test and adjust the TD of that filament to match what the printed model looks like - or you can try comparing it to the pictures in the PDF file. The single STL model can be reused to test any color by substituting it for the second color when printing the model.

==Q: What filaments do I want/need to do HueForge prints?==

A: To start it is good to have a black and TWO whites, one with a medium TD (around 4 or 5) and one with a TD less than 2. Then for good gray-scale images a light and a darker gray are useful, though on a budget one gray can give good results.

When planning color projects, it is most useful to have reds, blues, greens, yellows and maybe a brown as well. Remember that color blending is the name of the game with HueForge, so it is not absolutely necessary to have all of the colors and shades present in an image to get some stunning results.

However, as skill is gained it might be necessary to consider having two different versions of very similar colors, one with a low TD and one with a reasonably high TD. In particular, this is most true for white, where three levels of TD might be considered: one low, one mid-range and one high. The mid-range works for most images, where the low TD can be used as the last layer or two to get some “pop” in the whites where appropriate. The high TD white is often useful in muting a color or changing its tone, like shading in an otherwise blue sky.

Without a doubt, one disadvantage of owning (and using) HueForge is that you WILL want more colors of filament than you ever imagined you would.

==Q: Why Can't I Save My Filament Library?==

A: Since HueForge is not an installer, you must have directory permissions to write into the Filament directory. C:\Program Files and C:\Program Files (x86) are protected directories and Windows will not allow writing into them. Documents or simply C:\HueForge or C:\Programs\HueForge will work.

==Q: What do the sliders do?==

A: ''''Note:'''' Starting with version 0.9.0 the slider dock is turned off be default, because all of their functionality is provided on the Color Core. The dock can be opened using the Windows menu item, if desired.

The sliders (bottom left panel on the default screen of versions before 0.9.0) are a means of adding to and adjusting the colors (filaments) in a HueForge design.

Dragging a filament from the library panel (left side of the screen) and dropping it onto the Color Core (or a slider) makes it available for use in the design. Colors can be added to any used flag on the Color Core (or slider) to replace a color. Note that right clicking on a flag (or slider) opens a dialog menu that can also be used modify a color and/or a filament.

The primary means of adjusting the colors in the model, starting with version 0.9.0, is by moving flags on the Color and or Mesh cores. Pressing the space bar while hovering over a flag acts to disable that color. Pressing Z while hovering moves that color to zero height. Pressing DEL deletes it from the model.

The following explanations only apply if using the slider dock:

Moving a slider up causes that color to be added to the design up to (but not including) the layer number shown immediately below the slider. The number of layers of that color is the difference of the layer shown and that of the next lower slider (which may or may not be to the left of the slider being moved).

Slider heights do not need to progress upward from left to right, though it can be helpful to have them ordered that way. The Reorder Sliders button is used to resort the sliders into that sequence.

Moving a slider to a zero-layer height removes it from placement in the model, but not from the slider. Another way to do this is to click the layer number box, which toggles that slider to remove that color from inclusion in the model or to restore it to use. This method leaves the layer height unchanged.

The number of layers of a particular filament is the difference of that filament’s layer height and the height of the next lower filament. That is, the slider numbers represent where filaments end, not the total number of layers used in a print.

==Q: Does HueForge create the Gcode to send to the printer?==

A: No, Hueforge saves the project in four files, generally to a folder named HueForge/Projects. These are the [Project_name].HFP file, a copy of the original image with the same name as the project, a [Project_name].STL file of the geometry model, and a [Project_name]_describe.txt file with the information about the filaments and layer change information to be used in your favorite slicer.

==Q: I’ve had success with a grayscale print, but as soon as I try to add color everything goes south. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it?==

A: Adding colors to a HueForge image isn’t always straightforward. One way to learn how to manage colors is to use the examples provided in the HueForge/Projects folder. Load them and examine the sliders and other settings to see how the results were achieved. Then nudge sliders and other controls to see their effects. Then try loading one of your images that has similar colors in place of the original and see how it looks. This is especially true for modes like Color Pop (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?]] for additional information) and Color Aware (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?]] for additional information).

Additional information on how to use Color Pop and Color Aware is available [[How To Pages|here]]. There are also several video tutorials by HueForge [https://www.youtube.com/@hueforging] and others available on YouTube [https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hueforge].

==Q: How do I select filaments/colors to match my image?==

A: Right clicking on a point in the source image in HueForge opens a dialog menu with two choices; Find Closest Filament or Create New Filament. Selecting the first-choice sorts both Owned and Unowned filament libraries to place the filaments in nearest color order. If an Owned filament color is not acceptable a filament near the top of the Unowned list can be tested to see if it provides a better match.

Unowned filament items can be tested in the design to see how they perform without any obligation to purchase them. If you want to find a source of that filament right-clicking on color swatches that have a triangle cutout on the lower right will open a dialog with a Buy Filament option that takes you to an affiliated sales portal of that filament’s provider.

==Q: I'm new to HueForge and I think I've done everything correctly. But in the slicer there is only black?==

A: HueForge output contains the description of which filaments/colors were selected and what layers those colors occupy. However, it does NOT build a 3mf slicer file, because they are not fully standardized between slicer applications at this time. Rather, it is your job to define the filaments and the layers (height) at which a swap is required. This information is available in the [Project_Name]_describe.txt file that is created when the project (Project_Name) is saved.

==Q: How do I make my print thicker so it’s not so floppy?==

A: The easiest way to do this is to increase the value of Base Height in HueForge (or both the Min and Max depths in versions before 0.9.0 by an equal amount). Then to speed printing, the layer heights of the part of the print up to the Min depth can be increased to reduce the number of layers. This is called a Height Range Modifier in some slicers (not variable height). If it is used, the color changes are added at the layer height in millimeters, rather than the layer number.

==Q: I'm trying to do a print with a transparent background, but there is a rectangle where it should be blank in the slicer. How do I fix this?==

A: That is the [[Common_Terms]] Lazy Programmer Rectangle (LPR). It is a set of zero height triangles that disappears when sliced. In version 0.9.2.3 there is an Advanced Save option that makes it possible to specify the model be saved without the LPR.

==Q: Can I turn the print over to make it completely flat?==

A: No, not in standard Hueforge, because HueForge designs have only one color per layer. It often uses more than one layer of the same color, but a flat print would need more than one color per layer to produce the image. However, since the prints are generally thin, in most applications the surface texture is generally not a problem, even for things like coasters. And in other applications, like faux materials, the added texture gives an added sense of realism to the end product.

'''However''', an extra cost plugin, called FlatForge, is now available at the [https://shop.thehueforge.com| store] that enables printing flat HueForge prints - facedown (to take advantage of a special patterned print bed), double-sided or face up.

==Q: Will it hurt anything for me to scale up/down the model (STL) file in the slicer?==
A: Scaling the model up or down in HueForge is the best approach. However, if you just need to do a small adjustment (say 10-15%), it can be done in the slicer for the X and Y dimensions, only. Do NOT scale the Z axis as it changes layer heights, which adversely affects the color blending.

==Q: Do I need a purge tower with HueForge prints?==

a: In a word, NO. Because a HueForge print intentionally blends filament colors to create the image, a little overlap of the previous color will be unrecognizable in the final print. Save the time and filament by turning off the purge tower.

==Q: How do I print with more than four colors when I only have one AMS?==

A: You can swap filaments during the print in your single AMS, though you have to be sure not to miss the swap. So, either add pauses, or pull the fourth color that is going to print after the print is started (once the printer starts doing ANYTHING after the model is loaded). Add the extra filaments in the slicer. When you start the print and it asks you where to map the filaments, you select the correct slots (say fifth color in slot 1, sixth in slot 2, etc.).

Note: Pulling the fourth color is probably preferred, because if you ARE there to reload it, putting the color back in means the print will not pause at all.

==Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?==

A: Pictures with one region of color over a monochrome background benefit from the Color Pop mode. This mode stacks two color spectra one on top of the other. This puts the background of the image on the bottom of the print and the colored part above the background.

The original version of HueForge required breaking the image into separate images that were then joined after printing to accomplish this. This newer mode merges the process into one workflow within HueForge. Think of it as stacking two HueForged designs on top of each other. To do this it is necessary to define each region from dark to light, most often by duplicating the black and white filaments, once in the lower grayscale region and the second set to define the boundaries of the upper colored region.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Pop|Color Pop mode is available here]].

==Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?==

A: As with Color Pop, Color Aware is sometimes the best way to get the needed color separation that a project demands. This is often the case when the image contains two or three dominant colors but few greyscale areas. Like Color Pop, Color Aware reproduces the color spectrum multiple times one on top of the other.

The difference is that instead of separating grayscale from color, Color Aware separates levels by the primary RGB colors: red, blue and green. Control is provided to expand or contract the color levels based on a particular project’s needs.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Aware|Color Aware mode is available here]].

==Q: Can HueForge be used to make lithophanes? If so, how is it done?==

A: Yes, before its release Hueforge started out as a tool to help produce colored lithophanes. Selecting Blending Type > Lithophanes in the appropriate tool bar enters that operational mode. Monochrome lithophanes with cool colors (blues or greens) OR warm colors (reds/yellows) are easily developed, but full spectrum images need special treatment discussed in some detail in the article [[Stained_Glass| How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane]].

==Q: Why when I port my HueForge into my slicer and add the filament swaps, it seems to not work with color?==

A: The view in the slicer certainly looks different from the HueForge window, because the slicer doesn't know how to blend colors. Clicking on "Slicer View" in HueForge will reveal more or less what the slicer will show.

==Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?==

A: Not at all. The BambuLab AMS allows you to 'hot swap' spools while printing. If you have a five colour print, you can take out the first spool in the AMS once it has completed printing and replace it with the fifth spool. As long as you have told the slicer that the first spool and the fifth spool occupy the same slot in the AMS, you will be perfectly fine!

==Q: Why is my Export STL Option Grayed Out?==

A: You have loaded an STL file as your input (most often the TD_Step_Test.stl). As such, there is no STL output to export, you already have it. HueForge does not modify pre-existing STL files.

==Q: Why when I have a transparent image there is still a rectangle in the slicer?==

A: Two options here - first, make sure your image is ACTUALLY transparent. If you don't see the checkboard behind the image itself, it isn't transparent. Second, if it really is transparent, then it's the result of the "Lazy Programmer Rectangle". That is, a zero-height region that disappears when sliced.

==Q: Why do I have different number of layers between the HueForge program and the slicer?==

A: Assuming you have matched the first layer height and other layer heights in the slicer correctly as they were in Hueforge, the most common reason this happens, especially if the layer is off by one or two layers (HueForge says you should have 10 but the slicer says you have 9 layers) is because the image has tall spikes of colours that appear unprintable in the slicer. Portions of the image that are generally thinner than your line width will be ignored by the slicer and therefore will have one or two fewer layers than what HueForge expects due to these spikes. This video helps explain this occurrence: [https://youtu.be/w8udIPVC80g| HELP! Why Doesn't my Mesh Height Match!?]

FAQ

2026-01-21T19:02:09Z

Tlavedas: /* Q: Can I turn the print over to make it completely flat? */

This FAQ covers operational questions and assumes the use of all versions. Details might not apply for later versions unless specifically noted. Some details might not apply to earlier version of the application. It does not address questions about purchasing, downloading or upgrading the software. For such questions, please see the [https://shop.thehueforge.com/pages/faq| Store FAQ]

==Q: Do I need an AMS/MMU to print HueForge designs?==

A: NO! Though an AMS/MMU makes printing easier, the application is specifically designed to have only one color per layer, so ANY printer capable of pausing for a filament swap can reproduce a HueForge print.

If you are using an AMS/MMU, you might find the information below about [[#Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?| using more than four colors]] useful.

==Q: What is TD and why do I care?==

A: TD is short for transmission distance and is a measure of how much light penetrates a filament. It is used to calculate the amount of color blending that occurs between layers of filament so the application can predict resulting colors properly.

==Q: Can I use my own filament that’s not listed in the filament library?==

A: Yes, of course. However, all filament needs to be properly characterized by its RGB number (hex) and its transmission distance (TD). HueForge uses this to provide an accurate prediction of the resulting print. Filament data can be added to the library as Owned by clicking New Filament and saving to the library for future reference. Note: Clicking the checkbox next to a filament that is in the Unowned library moves it to the Owned library (press Save Library for future use).

==Q: How do I get the TD value for a filament?==

A: HueForge has a large library of filaments, from various companies (like BambuLabs, Esun, Fillamentum, Overture, IIID Max, Numakers, Paramount 3D, Polymaker, Protopasta, Sunlu and others). Additional filaments and makers are being added as they become available.

However, if yours is not already in the library, there are several ways to determine the TD of a filament. These include printing a small two-color sample, searching social media sites for published community supported filament databases or directly measuring it using the recently released sensor, the TD-1, from Ajax-3D.

Printing a two-color sample using a filament with a known TD (generally black or white) under the one being tested is a common way to get the TD value of a filament. Various samples have been proposed and used recently; however, it is now suggested to use the Seashell_Test.hfp found in the HueForge/Tools folder to determine the TD of the filament. "The Seashell Method.PDF" file in the folder describes how to use this technique. See [[#Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?]].

If you are in the Discord HueForge group (invite comes with your purchase) go to we-share-seashells for pictures of seashells users have printed to gauge the TD. You can also post a picture of the finished model in ⁠we-share-seashells and ask for others to help read its TD.

Some examples of community filament databases: At Reddit [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BockVJQx3yfiFaum9rRFb2mBHVHLkMRyPEzAyllH2oo/edit?usp=sharing], Google Drive [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WwymQwgA7_RYrXVKVlcgW4w-c1B9WARKermkprmaewM/htmlview?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR17iZXaK2ntRw7t8ZnRpf1yB0FQe4Y0XyCtPoIjvL-yG9hyCCEY6LtD-2I_aem_Aa0otIfLkeWjGFHNycimOTX40YJAB8xBWQUWabjL1U4EfWN13-K5Txb-HBx-Tgy9--GHx2YFXkNqzM4V52vRX2Fq], TBD

The TD-1 is a sensor device designed and provided through Ajax-3D that integrates directly with HueForge to read the TD of a filament inserted into it and to estimate its RGB value. More information is available at his website: [https://ajax-3d.com/]

==Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?==

A: To save distribution file size, the needed STL is not provided. Instead, open the Seashell_Test.hfp project and save it to create an STL. Load the STL in your slicer and set 0.08mm layer heights, black for your first color and the single swap to your test color at 0.56mm (using a height range modifier to print at 0.16mm up to 0.48mm saves time). If you want, you can test your color by substituting the white in HueForge with your color under test and adjust the TD of that filament to match what the printed model looks like - or you can try comparing it to the pictures in the PDF file. The single STL model can be reused to test any color by substituting it for the second color when printing the model.

==Q: What filaments do I want/need to do HueForge prints?==

A: To start it is good to have a black and TWO whites, one with a medium TD (around 4 or 5) and one with a TD less than 2. Then for good gray-scale images a light and a darker gray are useful, though on a budget one gray can give good results.

When planning color projects, it is most useful to have reds, blues, greens, yellows and maybe a brown as well. Remember that color blending is the name of the game with HueForge, so it is not absolutely necessary to have all of the colors and shades present in an image to get some stunning results.

However, as skill is gained it might be necessary to consider having two different versions of very similar colors, one with a low TD and one with a reasonably high TD. In particular, this is most true for white, where three levels of TD might be considered: one low, one mid-range and one high. The mid-range works for most images, where the low TD can be used as the last layer or two to get some “pop” in the whites where appropriate. The high TD white is often useful in muting a color or changing its tone, like shading in an otherwise blue sky.

Without a doubt, one disadvantage of owning (and using) HueForge is that you WILL want more colors of filament than you ever imagined you would.

==Q: Why Can't I Save My Filament Library?==

A: Since HueForge is not an installer, you must have directory permissions to write into the Filament directory. C:\Program Files and C:\Program Files (x86) are protected directories and Windows will not allow writing into them. Documents or simply C:\HueForge or C:\Programs\HueForge will work.

==Q: What do the sliders do?==

A: ''''Note:'''' Starting with version 0.9.0 the slider dock is turned off be default, because all of their functionality is provided on the Color Core. The dock can be opened using the Windows menu item, if desired.

The sliders (bottom left panel on the default screen of versions before 0.9.0) are a means of adding to and adjusting the colors (filaments) in a HueForge design.

Dragging a filament from the library panel (left side of the screen) and dropping it onto the Color Core (or a slider) makes it available for use in the design. Colors can be added to any used flag on the Color Core (or slider) to replace a color. Note that right clicking on a flag (or slider) opens a dialog menu that can also be used modify a color and/or a filament.

The primary means of adjusting the colors in the model, starting with version 0.9.0, is by moving flags on the Color and or Mesh cores. Pressing the space bar while hovering over a flag acts to disable that color. Pressing Z while hovering moves that color to zero height. Pressing DEL deletes it from the model.

The following explanations only apply if using the slider dock:

Moving a slider up causes that color to be added to the design up to (but not including) the layer number shown immediately below the slider. The number of layers of that color is the difference of the layer shown and that of the next lower slider (which may or may not be to the left of the slider being moved).

Slider heights do not need to progress upward from left to right, though it can be helpful to have them ordered that way. The Reorder Sliders button is used to resort the sliders into that sequence.

Moving a slider to a zero-layer height removes it from placement in the model, but not from the slider. Another way to do this is to click the layer number box, which toggles that slider to remove that color from inclusion in the model or to restore it to use. This method leaves the layer height unchanged.

The number of layers of a particular filament is the difference of that filament’s layer height and the height of the next lower filament. That is, the slider numbers represent where filaments end, not the total number of layers used in a print.

==Q: Does HueForge create the Gcode to send to the printer?==

A: No, Hueforge saves the project in four files, generally to a folder named HueForge/Projects. These are the [Project_name].HFP file, a copy of the original image with the same name as the project, a [Project_name].STL file of the geometry model, and a [Project_name]_describe.txt file with the information about the filaments and layer change information to be used in your favorite slicer.

==Q: I’ve had success with a grayscale print, but as soon as I try to add color everything goes south. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it?==

A: Adding colors to a HueForge image isn’t always straightforward. One way to learn how to manage colors is to use the examples provided in the HueForge/Projects folder. Load them and examine the sliders and other settings to see how the results were achieved. Then nudge sliders and other controls to see their effects. Then try loading one of your images that has similar colors in place of the original and see how it looks. This is especially true for modes like Color Pop (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?]] for additional information) and Color Aware (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?]] for additional information).

Additional information on how to use Color Pop and Color Aware is available [[How To Pages|here]]. There are also several video tutorials by HueForge [https://www.youtube.com/@hueforging] and others available on YouTube [https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hueforge].

==Q: How do I select filaments/colors to match my image?==

A: Right clicking on a point in the source image in HueForge opens a dialog menu with two choices; Find Closest Filament or Create New Filament. Selecting the first-choice sorts both Owned and Unowned filament libraries to place the filaments in nearest color order. If an Owned filament color is not acceptable a filament near the top of the Unowned list can be tested to see if it provides a better match.

Unowned filament items can be tested in the design to see how they perform without any obligation to purchase them. If you want to find a source of that filament right-clicking on color swatches that have a triangle cutout on the lower right will open a dialog with a Buy Filament option that takes you to an affiliated sales portal of that filament’s provider.

==Q: I'm new to HueForge and I think I've done everything correctly. But in the slicer there is only black?==

A: HueForge output contains the description of which filaments/colors were selected and what layers those colors occupy. However, it does NOT build a 3mf slicer file, because they are not fully standardized between slicer applications at this time. Rather, it is your job to define the filaments and the layers (height) at which a swap is required. This information is available in the [Project_Name]_describe.txt file that is created when the project (Project_Name) is saved.

==Q: How do I make my print thicker so it’s not so floppy?==

A: The easiest way to do this is to increase the value of Base Height in HueForge (or both the Min and Max depths in versions before 0.9.0 by an equal amount). Then to speed printing, the layer heights of the part of the print up to the Min depth can be increased to reduce the number of layers. This is called a Height Range Modifier in some slicers (not variable height). If it is used, the color changes are added at the layer height in millimeters, rather than the layer number.

==Q: I'm trying to do a print with a transparent background, but there is a rectangle where it should be blank in the slicer. How do I fix this?==

A: That is the [[Common_Terms]] Lazy Programmer Rectangle (LPR). It is a set of zero height triangles that disappears when sliced. In version 0.9.2.3 there is an Advanced Save option that makes it possible to specify the model be saved without the LPR.

==Q: Can I turn the print over to make it completely flat?==

A: No, not in standard Hueforge, because HueForge designs have only one color per layer. It often uses more than one layer of the same color, but a flat print would need more than one color per layer to produce the image. However, since the prints are generally thin, in most applications the surface texture is generally not a problem, even for things like coasters. And in other applications, like faux materials, the added texture gives an added sense of realism to the end product.

''''However'''', an extra cost plugin, called FlatForge, is now available at the [https://shop.thehueforge.com| store] that enables printing flat HueForge prints - facedown (to take advantage of a special patterned print bed), double-sided or face up.

==Q: Will it hurt anything for me to scale up/down the model (STL) file in the slicer?==
A: Scaling the model up or down in HueForge is the best approach. However, if you just need to do a small adjustment (say 10-15%), it can be done in the slicer for the X and Y dimensions, only. Do NOT scale the Z axis as it changes layer heights, which adversely affects the color blending.

==Q: Do I need a purge tower with HueForge prints?==

a: In a word, NO. Because a HueForge print intentionally blends filament colors to create the image, a little overlap of the previous color will be unrecognizable in the final print. Save the time and filament by turning off the purge tower.

==Q: How do I print with more than four colors when I only have one AMS?==

A: You can swap filaments during the print in your single AMS, though you have to be sure not to miss the swap. So, either add pauses, or pull the fourth color that is going to print after the print is started (once the printer starts doing ANYTHING after the model is loaded). Add the extra filaments in the slicer. When you start the print and it asks you where to map the filaments, you select the correct slots (say fifth color in slot 1, sixth in slot 2, etc.).

Note: Pulling the fourth color is probably preferred, because if you ARE there to reload it, putting the color back in means the print will not pause at all.

==Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?==

A: Pictures with one region of color over a monochrome background benefit from the Color Pop mode. This mode stacks two color spectra one on top of the other. This puts the background of the image on the bottom of the print and the colored part above the background.

The original version of HueForge required breaking the image into separate images that were then joined after printing to accomplish this. This newer mode merges the process into one workflow within HueForge. Think of it as stacking two HueForged designs on top of each other. To do this it is necessary to define each region from dark to light, most often by duplicating the black and white filaments, once in the lower grayscale region and the second set to define the boundaries of the upper colored region.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Pop|Color Pop mode is available here]].

==Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?==

A: As with Color Pop, Color Aware is sometimes the best way to get the needed color separation that a project demands. This is often the case when the image contains two or three dominant colors but few greyscale areas. Like Color Pop, Color Aware reproduces the color spectrum multiple times one on top of the other.

The difference is that instead of separating grayscale from color, Color Aware separates levels by the primary RGB colors: red, blue and green. Control is provided to expand or contract the color levels based on a particular project’s needs.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Aware|Color Aware mode is available here]].

==Q: Can HueForge be used to make lithophanes? If so, how is it done?==

A: Yes, before its release Hueforge started out as a tool to help produce colored lithophanes. Selecting Blending Type > Lithophanes in the appropriate tool bar enters that operational mode. Monochrome lithophanes with cool colors (blues or greens) OR warm colors (reds/yellows) are easily developed, but full spectrum images need special treatment discussed in some detail in the article [[Stained_Glass| How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane]].

==Q: Why when I port my HueForge into my slicer and add the filament swaps, it seems to not work with color?==

A: The view in the slicer certainly looks different from the HueForge window, because the slicer doesn't know how to blend colors. Clicking on "Slicer View" in HueForge will reveal more or less what the slicer will show.

==Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?==

A: Not at all. The BambuLab AMS allows you to 'hot swap' spools while printing. If you have a five colour print, you can take out the first spool in the AMS once it has completed printing and replace it with the fifth spool. As long as you have told the slicer that the first spool and the fifth spool occupy the same slot in the AMS, you will be perfectly fine!

==Q: Why is my Export STL Option Grayed Out?==

A: You have loaded an STL file as your input (most often the TD_Step_Test.stl). As such, there is no STL output to export, you already have it. HueForge does not modify pre-existing STL files.

==Q: Why when I have a transparent image there is still a rectangle in the slicer?==

A: Two options here - first, make sure your image is ACTUALLY transparent. If you don't see the checkboard behind the image itself, it isn't transparent. Second, if it really is transparent, then it's the result of the "Lazy Programmer Rectangle". That is, a zero-height region that disappears when sliced.

==Q: Why do I have different number of layers between the HueForge program and the slicer?==

A: Assuming you have matched the first layer height and other layer heights in the slicer correctly as they were in Hueforge, the most common reason this happens, especially if the layer is off by one or two layers (HueForge says you should have 10 but the slicer says you have 9 layers) is because the image has tall spikes of colours that appear unprintable in the slicer. Portions of the image that are generally thinner than your line width will be ignored by the slicer and therefore will have one or two fewer layers than what HueForge expects due to these spikes. This video helps explain this occurrence: [https://youtu.be/w8udIPVC80g| HELP! Why Doesn't my Mesh Height Match!?]

FAQ

2026-01-21T19:00:09Z

Tlavedas:

This FAQ covers operational questions and assumes the use of all versions. Details might not apply for later versions unless specifically noted. Some details might not apply to earlier version of the application. It does not address questions about purchasing, downloading or upgrading the software. For such questions, please see the [https://shop.thehueforge.com/pages/faq| Store FAQ]

==Q: Do I need an AMS/MMU to print HueForge designs?==

A: NO! Though an AMS/MMU makes printing easier, the application is specifically designed to have only one color per layer, so ANY printer capable of pausing for a filament swap can reproduce a HueForge print.

If you are using an AMS/MMU, you might find the information below about [[#Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?| using more than four colors]] useful.

==Q: What is TD and why do I care?==

A: TD is short for transmission distance and is a measure of how much light penetrates a filament. It is used to calculate the amount of color blending that occurs between layers of filament so the application can predict resulting colors properly.

==Q: Can I use my own filament that’s not listed in the filament library?==

A: Yes, of course. However, all filament needs to be properly characterized by its RGB number (hex) and its transmission distance (TD). HueForge uses this to provide an accurate prediction of the resulting print. Filament data can be added to the library as Owned by clicking New Filament and saving to the library for future reference. Note: Clicking the checkbox next to a filament that is in the Unowned library moves it to the Owned library (press Save Library for future use).

==Q: How do I get the TD value for a filament?==

A: HueForge has a large library of filaments, from various companies (like BambuLabs, Esun, Fillamentum, Overture, IIID Max, Numakers, Paramount 3D, Polymaker, Protopasta, Sunlu and others). Additional filaments and makers are being added as they become available.

However, if yours is not already in the library, there are several ways to determine the TD of a filament. These include printing a small two-color sample, searching social media sites for published community supported filament databases or directly measuring it using the recently released sensor, the TD-1, from Ajax-3D.

Printing a two-color sample using a filament with a known TD (generally black or white) under the one being tested is a common way to get the TD value of a filament. Various samples have been proposed and used recently; however, it is now suggested to use the Seashell_Test.hfp found in the HueForge/Tools folder to determine the TD of the filament. "The Seashell Method.PDF" file in the folder describes how to use this technique. See [[#Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?]].

If you are in the Discord HueForge group (invite comes with your purchase) go to we-share-seashells for pictures of seashells users have printed to gauge the TD. You can also post a picture of the finished model in ⁠we-share-seashells and ask for others to help read its TD.

Some examples of community filament databases: At Reddit [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BockVJQx3yfiFaum9rRFb2mBHVHLkMRyPEzAyllH2oo/edit?usp=sharing], Google Drive [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WwymQwgA7_RYrXVKVlcgW4w-c1B9WARKermkprmaewM/htmlview?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR17iZXaK2ntRw7t8ZnRpf1yB0FQe4Y0XyCtPoIjvL-yG9hyCCEY6LtD-2I_aem_Aa0otIfLkeWjGFHNycimOTX40YJAB8xBWQUWabjL1U4EfWN13-K5Txb-HBx-Tgy9--GHx2YFXkNqzM4V52vRX2Fq], TBD

The TD-1 is a sensor device designed and provided through Ajax-3D that integrates directly with HueForge to read the TD of a filament inserted into it and to estimate its RGB value. More information is available at his website: [https://ajax-3d.com/]

==Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?==

A: To save distribution file size, the needed STL is not provided. Instead, open the Seashell_Test.hfp project and save it to create an STL. Load the STL in your slicer and set 0.08mm layer heights, black for your first color and the single swap to your test color at 0.56mm (using a height range modifier to print at 0.16mm up to 0.48mm saves time). If you want, you can test your color by substituting the white in HueForge with your color under test and adjust the TD of that filament to match what the printed model looks like - or you can try comparing it to the pictures in the PDF file. The single STL model can be reused to test any color by substituting it for the second color when printing the model.

==Q: What filaments do I want/need to do HueForge prints?==

A: To start it is good to have a black and TWO whites, one with a medium TD (around 4 or 5) and one with a TD less than 2. Then for good gray-scale images a light and a darker gray are useful, though on a budget one gray can give good results.

When planning color projects, it is most useful to have reds, blues, greens, yellows and maybe a brown as well. Remember that color blending is the name of the game with HueForge, so it is not absolutely necessary to have all of the colors and shades present in an image to get some stunning results.

However, as skill is gained it might be necessary to consider having two different versions of very similar colors, one with a low TD and one with a reasonably high TD. In particular, this is most true for white, where three levels of TD might be considered: one low, one mid-range and one high. The mid-range works for most images, where the low TD can be used as the last layer or two to get some “pop” in the whites where appropriate. The high TD white is often useful in muting a color or changing its tone, like shading in an otherwise blue sky.

Without a doubt, one disadvantage of owning (and using) HueForge is that you WILL want more colors of filament than you ever imagined you would.

==Q: Why Can't I Save My Filament Library?==

A: Since HueForge is not an installer, you must have directory permissions to write into the Filament directory. C:\Program Files and C:\Program Files (x86) are protected directories and Windows will not allow writing into them. Documents or simply C:\HueForge or C:\Programs\HueForge will work.

==Q: What do the sliders do?==

A: ''''Note:'''' Starting with version 0.9.0 the slider dock is turned off be default, because all of their functionality is provided on the Color Core. The dock can be opened using the Windows menu item, if desired.

The sliders (bottom left panel on the default screen of versions before 0.9.0) are a means of adding to and adjusting the colors (filaments) in a HueForge design.

Dragging a filament from the library panel (left side of the screen) and dropping it onto the Color Core (or a slider) makes it available for use in the design. Colors can be added to any used flag on the Color Core (or slider) to replace a color. Note that right clicking on a flag (or slider) opens a dialog menu that can also be used modify a color and/or a filament.

The primary means of adjusting the colors in the model, starting with version 0.9.0, is by moving flags on the Color and or Mesh cores. Pressing the space bar while hovering over a flag acts to disable that color. Pressing Z while hovering moves that color to zero height. Pressing DEL deletes it from the model.

The following explanations only apply if using the slider dock:

Moving a slider up causes that color to be added to the design up to (but not including) the layer number shown immediately below the slider. The number of layers of that color is the difference of the layer shown and that of the next lower slider (which may or may not be to the left of the slider being moved).

Slider heights do not need to progress upward from left to right, though it can be helpful to have them ordered that way. The Reorder Sliders button is used to resort the sliders into that sequence.

Moving a slider to a zero-layer height removes it from placement in the model, but not from the slider. Another way to do this is to click the layer number box, which toggles that slider to remove that color from inclusion in the model or to restore it to use. This method leaves the layer height unchanged.

The number of layers of a particular filament is the difference of that filament’s layer height and the height of the next lower filament. That is, the slider numbers represent where filaments end, not the total number of layers used in a print.

==Q: Does HueForge create the Gcode to send to the printer?==

A: No, Hueforge saves the project in four files, generally to a folder named HueForge/Projects. These are the [Project_name].HFP file, a copy of the original image with the same name as the project, a [Project_name].STL file of the geometry model, and a [Project_name]_describe.txt file with the information about the filaments and layer change information to be used in your favorite slicer.

==Q: I’ve had success with a grayscale print, but as soon as I try to add color everything goes south. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it?==

A: Adding colors to a HueForge image isn’t always straightforward. One way to learn how to manage colors is to use the examples provided in the HueForge/Projects folder. Load them and examine the sliders and other settings to see how the results were achieved. Then nudge sliders and other controls to see their effects. Then try loading one of your images that has similar colors in place of the original and see how it looks. This is especially true for modes like Color Pop (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?]] for additional information) and Color Aware (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?]] for additional information).

Additional information on how to use Color Pop and Color Aware is available [[How To Pages|here]]. There are also several video tutorials by HueForge [https://www.youtube.com/@hueforging] and others available on YouTube [https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hueforge].

==Q: How do I select filaments/colors to match my image?==

A: Right clicking on a point in the source image in HueForge opens a dialog menu with two choices; Find Closest Filament or Create New Filament. Selecting the first-choice sorts both Owned and Unowned filament libraries to place the filaments in nearest color order. If an Owned filament color is not acceptable a filament near the top of the Unowned list can be tested to see if it provides a better match.

Unowned filament items can be tested in the design to see how they perform without any obligation to purchase them. If you want to find a source of that filament right-clicking on color swatches that have a triangle cutout on the lower right will open a dialog with a Buy Filament option that takes you to an affiliated sales portal of that filament’s provider.

==Q: I'm new to HueForge and I think I've done everything correctly. But in the slicer there is only black?==

A: HueForge output contains the description of which filaments/colors were selected and what layers those colors occupy. However, it does NOT build a 3mf slicer file, because they are not fully standardized between slicer applications at this time. Rather, it is your job to define the filaments and the layers (height) at which a swap is required. This information is available in the [Project_Name]_describe.txt file that is created when the project (Project_Name) is saved.

==Q: How do I make my print thicker so it’s not so floppy?==

A: The easiest way to do this is to increase the value of Base Height in HueForge (or both the Min and Max depths in versions before 0.9.0 by an equal amount). Then to speed printing, the layer heights of the part of the print up to the Min depth can be increased to reduce the number of layers. This is called a Height Range Modifier in some slicers (not variable height). If it is used, the color changes are added at the layer height in millimeters, rather than the layer number.

==Q: I'm trying to do a print with a transparent background, but there is a rectangle where it should be blank in the slicer. How do I fix this?==

A: That is the [[Common_Terms]] Lazy Programmer Rectangle (LPR). It is a set of zero height triangles that disappears when sliced. In version 0.9.2.3 there is an Advanced Save option that makes it possible to specify the model be saved without the LPR.

==Q: Can I turn the print over to make it completely flat?==

A: No, not in standard Hueforge, because HueForge designs have only one color per layer. It often uses more than one layer of the same color, but a flat print would need more than one color per layer to produce the image. However, since the prints are generally thin, in most applications the surface texture is generally not a problem, even for things like coasters. And in other applications, like faux materials, the added texture gives an added sense of realism to the end product.

''''However'''', an extra cost plugin, called FlatForge, is now available at the [https:\\shop.thehueforge.com| store] that enables printing flat HueForge prints - facedown (to take advantage of a special patterned print bed), double-sided or face up.

==Q: Will it hurt anything for me to scale up/down the model (STL) file in the slicer?==
A: Scaling the model up or down in HueForge is the best approach. However, if you just need to do a small adjustment (say 10-15%), it can be done in the slicer for the X and Y dimensions, only. Do NOT scale the Z axis as it changes layer heights, which adversely affects the color blending.

==Q: Do I need a purge tower with HueForge prints?==

a: In a word, NO. Because a HueForge print intentionally blends filament colors to create the image, a little overlap of the previous color will be unrecognizable in the final print. Save the time and filament by turning off the purge tower.

==Q: How do I print with more than four colors when I only have one AMS?==

A: You can swap filaments during the print in your single AMS, though you have to be sure not to miss the swap. So, either add pauses, or pull the fourth color that is going to print after the print is started (once the printer starts doing ANYTHING after the model is loaded). Add the extra filaments in the slicer. When you start the print and it asks you where to map the filaments, you select the correct slots (say fifth color in slot 1, sixth in slot 2, etc.).

Note: Pulling the fourth color is probably preferred, because if you ARE there to reload it, putting the color back in means the print will not pause at all.

==Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?==

A: Pictures with one region of color over a monochrome background benefit from the Color Pop mode. This mode stacks two color spectra one on top of the other. This puts the background of the image on the bottom of the print and the colored part above the background.

The original version of HueForge required breaking the image into separate images that were then joined after printing to accomplish this. This newer mode merges the process into one workflow within HueForge. Think of it as stacking two HueForged designs on top of each other. To do this it is necessary to define each region from dark to light, most often by duplicating the black and white filaments, once in the lower grayscale region and the second set to define the boundaries of the upper colored region.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Pop|Color Pop mode is available here]].

==Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?==

A: As with Color Pop, Color Aware is sometimes the best way to get the needed color separation that a project demands. This is often the case when the image contains two or three dominant colors but few greyscale areas. Like Color Pop, Color Aware reproduces the color spectrum multiple times one on top of the other.

The difference is that instead of separating grayscale from color, Color Aware separates levels by the primary RGB colors: red, blue and green. Control is provided to expand or contract the color levels based on a particular project’s needs.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Aware|Color Aware mode is available here]].

==Q: Can HueForge be used to make lithophanes? If so, how is it done?==

A: Yes, before its release Hueforge started out as a tool to help produce colored lithophanes. Selecting Blending Type > Lithophanes in the appropriate tool bar enters that operational mode. Monochrome lithophanes with cool colors (blues or greens) OR warm colors (reds/yellows) are easily developed, but full spectrum images need special treatment discussed in some detail in the article [[Stained_Glass| How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane]].

==Q: Why when I port my HueForge into my slicer and add the filament swaps, it seems to not work with color?==

A: The view in the slicer certainly looks different from the HueForge window, because the slicer doesn't know how to blend colors. Clicking on "Slicer View" in HueForge will reveal more or less what the slicer will show.

==Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?==

A: Not at all. The BambuLab AMS allows you to 'hot swap' spools while printing. If you have a five colour print, you can take out the first spool in the AMS once it has completed printing and replace it with the fifth spool. As long as you have told the slicer that the first spool and the fifth spool occupy the same slot in the AMS, you will be perfectly fine!

==Q: Why is my Export STL Option Grayed Out?==

A: You have loaded an STL file as your input (most often the TD_Step_Test.stl). As such, there is no STL output to export, you already have it. HueForge does not modify pre-existing STL files.

==Q: Why when I have a transparent image there is still a rectangle in the slicer?==

A: Two options here - first, make sure your image is ACTUALLY transparent. If you don't see the checkboard behind the image itself, it isn't transparent. Second, if it really is transparent, then it's the result of the "Lazy Programmer Rectangle". That is, a zero-height region that disappears when sliced.

==Q: Why do I have different number of layers between the HueForge program and the slicer?==

A: Assuming you have matched the first layer height and other layer heights in the slicer correctly as they were in Hueforge, the most common reason this happens, especially if the layer is off by one or two layers (HueForge says you should have 10 but the slicer says you have 9 layers) is because the image has tall spikes of colours that appear unprintable in the slicer. Portions of the image that are generally thinner than your line width will be ignored by the slicer and therefore will have one or two fewer layers than what HueForge expects due to these spikes. This video helps explain this occurrence: [https://youtu.be/w8udIPVC80g| HELP! Why Doesn't my Mesh Height Match!?]

FAQ

2026-01-21T18:57:22Z

Tlavedas:

This FAQ covers operational questions and assumes the use of all versions. Details might not apply for later versions unless specifically noted. Some details might not apply to earlier version of the application. It does not address questions about purchasing, downloading or upgrading the software. For such questions, please see the [https://shop.thehueforge.com/pages/faq| Store FAQ]

==Q: Do I need an AMS/MMU to print HueForge designs?==

A: NO! Though an AMS/MMU makes printing easier, the application is specifically designed to have only one color per layer, so ANY printer capable of pausing for a filament swap can reproduce a HueForge print.

If you are using an AMS/MMU, you might find the information below about [[#Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?| using more than four colors]] useful.

==Q: What is TD and why do I care?==

A: TD is short for transmission distance and is a measure of how much light penetrates a filament. It is used to calculate the amount of color blending that occurs between layers of filament so the application can predict resulting colors properly.

==Q: Can I use my own filament that’s not listed in the filament library?==

A: Yes, of course. However, all filament needs to be properly characterized by its RGB number (hex) and its transmission distance (TD). HueForge uses this to provide an accurate prediction of the resulting print. Filament data can be added to the library as Owned by clicking New Filament and saving to the library for future reference. Note: Clicking the checkbox next to a filament that is in the Unowned library moves it to the Owned library (press Save Library for future use).

==Q: How do I get the TD value for a filament?==

A: HueForge has a large library of filaments, from various companies (like BambuLabs, Esun, Fillamentum, Overture, IIID Max, Numakers, Paramount 3D, Polymaker, Protopasta, Sunlu and others). Additional filaments and makers are being added as they become available.

However, if yours is not already in the library, there are several ways to determine the TD of a filament. These include printing a small two-color sample, searching social media sites for published community supported filament databases or directly measuring it using the recently released sensor, the TD-1, from Ajax-3D.

Printing a two-color sample using a filament with a known TD (generally black or white) under the one being tested is a common way to get the TD value of a filament. Various samples have been proposed and used recently; however, it is now suggested to use the Seashell_Test.hfp found in the HueForge/Tools folder to determine the TD of the filament. "The Seashell Method.PDF" file in the folder describes how to use this technique. See [[#Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?]].

If you are in the Discord HueForge group (invite comes with your purchase) go to we-share-seashells for pictures of seashells users have printed to gauge the TD. You can also post a picture of the finished model in ⁠we-share-seashells and ask for others to help read its TD.

Some examples of community filament databases: At Reddit [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BockVJQx3yfiFaum9rRFb2mBHVHLkMRyPEzAyllH2oo/edit?usp=sharing], Google Drive [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WwymQwgA7_RYrXVKVlcgW4w-c1B9WARKermkprmaewM/htmlview?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR17iZXaK2ntRw7t8ZnRpf1yB0FQe4Y0XyCtPoIjvL-yG9hyCCEY6LtD-2I_aem_Aa0otIfLkeWjGFHNycimOTX40YJAB8xBWQUWabjL1U4EfWN13-K5Txb-HBx-Tgy9--GHx2YFXkNqzM4V52vRX2Fq], TBD

The TD-1 is a sensor device designed and provided through Ajax-3D that integrates directly with HueForge to read the TD of a filament inserted into it and to estimate its RGB value. More information is available at his website: [https://ajax-3d.com/]

==Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?==

A: To save distribution file size, the needed STL is not provided. Instead, open the Seashell_Test.hfp project and save it to create an STL. Load the STL in your slicer and set 0.08mm layer heights, black for your first color and the single swap to your test color at 0.56mm (using a height range modifier to print at 0.16mm up to 0.48mm saves time). If you want, you can test your color by substituting the white in HueForge with your color under test and adjust the TD of that filament to match what the printed model looks like - or you can try comparing it to the pictures in the PDF file. The single STL model can be reused to test any color by substituting it for the second color when printing the model.

==Q: What filaments do I want/need to do HueForge prints?==

A: To start it is good to have a black and TWO whites, one with a medium TD (around 4 or 5) and one with a TD less than 2. Then for good gray-scale images a light and a darker gray are useful, though on a budget one gray can give good results.

When planning color projects, it is most useful to have reds, blues, greens, yellows and maybe a brown as well. Remember that color blending is the name of the game with HueForge, so it is not absolutely necessary to have all of the colors and shades present in an image to get some stunning results.

However, as skill is gained it might be necessary to consider having two different versions of very similar colors, one with a low TD and one with a reasonably high TD. In particular, this is most true for white, where three levels of TD might be considered: one low, one mid-range and one high. The mid-range works for most images, where the low TD can be used as the last layer or two to get some “pop” in the whites where appropriate. The high TD white is often useful in muting a color or changing its tone, like shading in an otherwise blue sky.

Without a doubt, one disadvantage of owning (and using) HueForge is that you WILL want more colors of filament than you ever imagined you would.

==Q: Why Can't I Save My Filament Library?==

A: Since HueForge is not an installer, you must have directory permissions to write into the Filament directory. C:\Program Files and C:\Program Files (x86) are protected directories and Windows will not allow writing into them. Documents or simply C:\HueForge or C:\Programs\HueForge will work.

==Q: What do the sliders do?==

A: ''''Note:'''' Starting with version 0.9.0 the slider dock is turned off be default, because all of their functionality is provided on the Color Core. The dock can be opened using the Windows menu item, if desired.

The sliders (bottom left panel on the default screen of versions before 0.9.0) are a means of adding to and adjusting the colors (filaments) in a HueForge design.

Dragging a filament from the library panel (left side of the screen) and dropping it onto the Color Core (or a slider) makes it available for use in the design. Colors can be added to any used flag on the Color Core (or slider) to replace a color. Note that right clicking on a flag (or slider) opens a dialog menu that can also be used modify a color and/or a filament.

The primary means of adjusting the colors in the model, starting with version 0.9.0, is by moving flags on the Color and or Mesh cores. Pressing the space bar while hovering over a flag acts to disable that color. Pressing Z while hovering moves that color to zero height. Pressing DEL deletes it from the model.

The following explanations only apply if using the slider dock:

Moving a slider up causes that color to be added to the design up to (but not including) the layer number shown immediately below the slider. The number of layers of that color is the difference of the layer shown and that of the next lower slider (which may or may not be to the left of the slider being moved).

Slider heights do not need to progress upward from left to right, though it can be helpful to have them ordered that way. The Reorder Sliders button is used to resort the sliders into that sequence.

Moving a slider to a zero-layer height removes it from placement in the model, but not from the slider. Another way to do this is to click the layer number box, which toggles that slider to remove that color from inclusion in the model or to restore it to use. This method leaves the layer height unchanged.

The number of layers of a particular filament is the difference of that filament’s layer height and the height of the next lower filament. That is, the slider numbers represent where filaments end, not the total number of layers used in a print.

==Q: Does HueForge create the Gcode to send to the printer?==

A: No, Hueforge saves the project in four files, generally to a folder named HueForge/Projects. These are the [Project_name].HFP file, a copy of the original image with the same name as the project, a [Project_name].STL file of the geometry model, and a [Project_name]_describe.txt file with the information about the filaments and layer change information to be used in your favorite slicer.

==Q: I’ve had success with a grayscale print, but as soon as I try to add color everything goes south. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it?==

A: Adding colors to a HueForge image isn’t always straightforward. One way to learn how to manage colors is to use the examples provided in the HueForge/Projects folder. Load them and examine the sliders and other settings to see how the results were achieved. Then nudge sliders and other controls to see their effects. Then try loading one of your images that has similar colors in place of the original and see how it looks. This is especially true for modes like Color Pop (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?]] for additional information) and Color Aware (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?]] for additional information).

Additional information on how to use Color Pop and Color Aware is available [[How To Pages|here]]. There are also several video tutorials by HueForge [https://www.youtube.com/@hueforging] and others available on YouTube [https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hueforge].

==Q: How do I select filaments/colors to match my image?==

A: Right clicking on a point in the source image in HueForge opens a dialog menu with two choices; Find Closest Filament or Create New Filament. Selecting the first-choice sorts both Owned and Unowned filament libraries to place the filaments in nearest color order. If an Owned filament color is not acceptable a filament near the top of the Unowned list can be tested to see if it provides a better match.

Unowned filament items can be tested in the design to see how they perform without any obligation to purchase them. If you want to find a source of that filament right-clicking on color swatches that have a triangle cutout on the lower right will open a dialog with a Buy Filament option that takes you to an affiliated sales portal of that filament’s provider.

==Q: I'm new to HueForge and I think I've done everything correctly. But in the slicer there is only black?==

A: HueForge output contains the description of which filaments/colors were selected and what layers those colors occupy. However, it does NOT build a 3mf slicer file, because they are not fully standardized between slicer applications at this time. Rather, it is your job to define the filaments and the layers (height) at which a swap is required. This information is available in the [Project_Name]_describe.txt file that is created when the project (Project_Name) is saved.

==Q: How do I make my print thicker so it’s not so floppy?==

A: The easiest way to do this is to increase the value of Base Height in HueForge (or both the Min and Max depths in versions before 0.9.0 by an equal amount). Then to speed printing, the layer heights of the part of the print up to the Min depth can be increased to reduce the number of layers. This is called a Height Range Modifier in some slicers (not variable height). If it is used, the color changes are added at the layer height in millimeters, rather than the layer number.

==Q: I'm trying to do a print with a transparent background, but there is a rectangle where it should be blank in the slicer. How do I fix this?==

A: That is the [[Common_Terms]] Lazy Programmer Rectangle (LPR). It is a set of zero height triangles that disappears when sliced. In version 0.9.2.3 there is an Advanced Save option that makes it possible to specify the model be saved without the LPR.

==Q: Can I turn the print over to make it completely flat?==

A: No, not in standard Hueforge, because HueForge designs have only one color per layer. It often uses more than one layer of the same color, but a flat print would need more than one color per layer to produce the image. However, since the prints are generally thin, in most applications the surface texture is generally not a problem, even for things like coasters. And in other applications, like faux materials, the added texture gives an added sense of realism to the end product.

''''However'''', an extra cost plugin, called FlatForge, is now available at the [http:\\shop.thehueforge.com|store] that enables printing flat HueForge prints - facedown (to take advantage of a special patterned print bed), double-sided or face up.

==Q: Will it hurt anything for me to scale up/down the model (STL) file in the slicer?==
A: Scaling the model up or down in HueForge is the best approach. However, if you just need to do a small adjustment (say 10-15%), it can be done in the slicer for the X and Y dimensions, only. Do NOT scale the Z axis as it changes layer heights, which adversely affects the color blending.

==Q: Do I need a purge tower with HueForge prints?==

a: In a word, NO. Because a HueForge print intentionally blends filament colors to create the image, a little overlap of the previous color will be unrecognizable in the final print. Save the time and filament by turning off the purge tower.

==Q: How do I print with more than four colors when I only have one AMS?==

A: You can swap filaments during the print in your single AMS, though you have to be sure not to miss the swap. So, either add pauses, or pull the fourth color that is going to print after the print is started (once the printer starts doing ANYTHING after the model is loaded). Add the extra filaments in the slicer. When you start the print and it asks you where to map the filaments, you select the correct slots (say fifth color in slot 1, sixth in slot 2, etc.).

Note: Pulling the fourth color is probably preferred, because if you ARE there to reload it, putting the color back in means the print will not pause at all.

==Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?==

A: Pictures with one region of color over a monochrome background benefit from the Color Pop mode. This mode stacks two color spectra one on top of the other. This puts the background of the image on the bottom of the print and the colored part above the background.

The original version of HueForge required breaking the image into separate images that were then joined after printing to accomplish this. This newer mode merges the process into one workflow within HueForge. Think of it as stacking two HueForged designs on top of each other. To do this it is necessary to define each region from dark to light, most often by duplicating the black and white filaments, once in the lower grayscale region and the second set to define the boundaries of the upper colored region.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Pop|Color Pop mode is available here]].

==Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?==

A: As with Color Pop, Color Aware is sometimes the best way to get the needed color separation that a project demands. This is often the case when the image contains two or three dominant colors but few greyscale areas. Like Color Pop, Color Aware reproduces the color spectrum multiple times one on top of the other.

The difference is that instead of separating grayscale from color, Color Aware separates levels by the primary RGB colors: red, blue and green. Control is provided to expand or contract the color levels based on a particular project’s needs.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Aware|Color Aware mode is available here]].

==Q: Can HueForge be used to make lithophanes? If so, how is it done?==

A: Yes, before its release Hueforge started out as a tool to help produce colored lithophanes. Selecting Blending Type > Lithophanes in the appropriate tool bar enters that operational mode. Monochrome lithophanes with cool colors (blues or greens) OR warm colors (reds/yellows) are easily developed, but full spectrum images need special treatment discussed in some detail in the article [[Stained_Glass| How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane]].

==Q: Why when I port my HueForge into my slicer and add the filament swaps, it seems to not work with color?==

A: The view in the slicer certainly looks different from the HueForge window, because the slicer doesn't know how to blend colors. Clicking on "Slicer View" in HueForge will reveal more or less what the slicer will show.

==Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?==

A: Not at all. The BambuLab AMS allows you to 'hot swap' spools while printing. If you have a five colour print, you can take out the first spool in the AMS once it has completed printing and replace it with the fifth spool. As long as you have told the slicer that the first spool and the fifth spool occupy the same slot in the AMS, you will be perfectly fine!

==Q: Why is my Export STL Option Grayed Out?==

A: You have loaded an STL file as your input (most often the TD_Step_Test.stl). As such, there is no STL output to export, you already have it. HueForge does not modify pre-existing STL files.

==Q: Why when I have a transparent image there is still a rectangle in the slicer?==

A: Two options here - first, make sure your image is ACTUALLY transparent. If you don't see the checkboard behind the image itself, it isn't transparent. Second, if it really is transparent, then it's the result of the "Lazy Programmer Rectangle". That is, a zero-height region that disappears when sliced.

==Q: Why do I have different number of layers between the HueForge program and the slicer?==

A: Assuming you have matched the first layer height and other layer heights in the slicer correctly as they were in Hueforge, the most common reason this happens, especially if the layer is off by one or two layers (HueForge says you should have 10 but the slicer says you have 9 layers) is because the image has tall spikes of colours that appear unprintable in the slicer. Portions of the image that are generally thinner than your line width will be ignored by the slicer and therefore will have one or two fewer layers than what HueForge expects due to these spikes. This video helps explain this occurrence: [https://youtu.be/w8udIPVC80g| HELP! Why Doesn't my Mesh Height Match!?]

FAQ

2026-01-20T20:40:01Z

Tlavedas: /* Q: Can HueForge be used to make lithophanes? If so, how is it done? */

This FAQ covers operational questions and assumes the use of versions up to 0.7.2. Details might not apply for later versions unless specifically noted. Some details might not apply to earlier version of the application. It does not address questions about purchasing, downloading or upgrading the software. For such questions, please see the [https://shop.thehueforge.com/pages/faq| Store FAQ]

==Q: Do I need an AMS/MMU to print HueForge designs?==

A: NO! Though an AMS/MMU makes printing easier, the application is specifically designed to have only one color per layer, so ANY printer capable of pausing for a filament swap can reproduce a HueForge print.

If you are using an AMS/MMU, you might find the information below about [[#Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?| using more than four colors]] useful.

==Q: What is TD and why do I care?==

A: TD is short for transmission distance and is a measure of how much light penetrates a filament. It is used to calculate the amount of color blending that occurs between layers of filament so the application can predict resulting colors properly.

==Q: Can I use my own filament that’s not listed in the filament library?==

A: Yes, of course. However, all filament needs to be properly characterized by its RGB number (hex) and its transmission distance (TD). HueForge uses this to provide an accurate prediction of the resulting print. Filament data can be added to the library as Owned by clicking New Filament and saving to the library for future reference. Note: Clicking the checkbox next to a filament that is in the Unowned library moves it to the Owned library (press Save Library for future use).

==Q: How do I get the TD value for a filament?==

A: HueForge has a large library of filaments, from various companies (like BambuLabs, Esun, Fillamentum, Overture, IIID Max, Numakers, Paramount 3D, Polymaker, Protopasta, Sunlu and others). Additional filaments and makers are being added as they become available.

However, if yours is not already in the library, there are several ways to determine the TD of a filament. These include printing a small two-color sample, searching social media sites for published community supported filament databases or directly measuring it using the recently released sensor, the TD-1, from Ajax-3D.

Printing a two-color sample using a filament with a known TD (generally black or white) under the one being tested is a common way to get the TD value of a filament. Various samples have been proposed and used recently; however, it is now suggested to use the Seashell_Test.hfp found in the HueForge/Tools folder to determine the TD of the filament. "The Seashell Method.PDF" file in the folder describes how to use this technique. See [[#Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?]].

If you are in the Discord HueForge group (invite comes with your purchase) go to we-share-seashells for pictures of seashells users have printed to gauge the TD. You can also post a picture of the finished model in ⁠we-share-seashells and ask for others to help read its TD.

Some examples of community filament databases: At Reddit [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BockVJQx3yfiFaum9rRFb2mBHVHLkMRyPEzAyllH2oo/edit?usp=sharing], Google Drive [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WwymQwgA7_RYrXVKVlcgW4w-c1B9WARKermkprmaewM/htmlview?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR17iZXaK2ntRw7t8ZnRpf1yB0FQe4Y0XyCtPoIjvL-yG9hyCCEY6LtD-2I_aem_Aa0otIfLkeWjGFHNycimOTX40YJAB8xBWQUWabjL1U4EfWN13-K5Txb-HBx-Tgy9--GHx2YFXkNqzM4V52vRX2Fq], TBD

The TD-1 is a sensor device designed and provided through Ajax-3D that integrates directly with HueForge to read the TD of a filament inserted into it and to estimate its RGB value. More information is available at his website: [https://ajax-3d.com/]

==Q: How do I use the SeaShell test to find the TD for my filament?==

A: To save distribution file size, the needed STL is not provided. Instead, open the Seashell_Test.hfp project and save it to create an STL. Load the STL in your slicer and set 0.08mm layer heights, black for your first color and the single swap to your test color at 0.56mm (using a height range modifier to print at 0.16mm up to 0.48mm saves time). If you want, you can test your color by substituting the white in HueForge with your color under test and adjust the TD of that filament to match what the printed model looks like - or you can try comparing it to the pictures in the PDF file. The single STL model can be reused to test any color by substituting it for the second color when printing the model.

==Q: What filaments do I want/need to do HueForge prints?==

A: To start it is good to have a black and TWO whites, one with a medium TD (around 4 or 5) and one with a TD less than 2. Then for good gray-scale images a light and a darker gray are useful, though on a budget one gray can give good results.

When planning color projects, it is most useful to have reds, blues, greens, yellows and maybe a brown as well. Remember that color blending is the name of the game with HueForge, so it is not absolutely necessary to have all of the colors and shades present in an image to get some stunning results.

However, as skill is gained it might be necessary to consider having two different versions of very similar colors, one with a low TD and one with a reasonably high TD. In particular, this is most true for white, where three levels of TD might be considered: one low, one mid-range and one high. The mid-range works for most images, where the low TD can be used as the last layer or two to get some “pop” in the whites where appropriate. The high TD white is often useful in muting a color or changing its tone, like shading in an otherwise blue sky.

Without a doubt, one disadvantage of owning (and using) HueForge is that you WILL want more colors of filament than you ever imagined you would.

==Q: Why Can't I Save My Filament Library?==

A: Since HueForge is not an installer, you must have directory permissions to write into the Filament directory. C:\Program Files and C:\Program Files (x86) are protected directories and Windows will not allow writing into them. Documents or simply C:\HueForge or C:\Programs\HueForge will work.

==Q: What do the sliders do?==

A: The sliders (bottom left panel on the default screen of versions before 0.9.0) are a means of adding to and adjusting the colors (filaments) in a HueForge design. Starting with version 0.9.0 the slider dock is turned off be default, because all of their functionality is provided on the Color Core. The dock can be opened using the Windows menu item, if desired.

Dragging a filament from the library panel (left side of the screen) and dropping it onto the Color Core (slider) makes it available for use in the design. Colors can be added to any used flag on the Color Core (or slider) to replace a color. Note that right clicking on a flag (or slider) opens a dialog menu that can also be used modify a color and/or a filament.

The primary means of adjusting the colors in the model, starting with version 0.9.0, is by moving flags on the Color and or Mesh cores. Pressing the space bar while hovering over a flag act to disable that color. Pressing Z while hovering moves that color to zero height.

The following explanations only apply if using the slider dock:

Moving a slider up causes that color to be added to the design up to (but not including) the layer number shown immediately below the slider. The number of layers of that color is the difference of the layer shown and that of the next lower slider (which may or may not be to the left of the slider being moved).

Slider heights do not need to progress upward from left to right, though it can be helpful to have them ordered that way. The Reorder Sliders button is used to resort the sliders into that sequence.

Moving a slider to a zero-layer height removes it from placement in the model, but not from the slider. Another way to do this is to click the layer number box, which toggles that slider to remove that color from inclusion in the model or to restore it to use. This method leaves the layer height unchanged.

The number of layers of a particular filament is the difference of that filament’s layer height and the height of the next lower filament. That is, the slider numbers represent where filaments end, not the total number of layers used in a print.

==Q: Does HueForge create the Gcode to send to the printer?==

A: No, Hueforge saves the project in four files, generally to a folder named HueForge/Projects. These are the [Project_name].HFP file, a copy of the original image with the same name as the project, a [Project_name].STL file of the geometry model, and a [Project_name]_describe.txt file with the information about the filaments and layer change information to be used in your favorite slicer.

==Q: I’ve had success with a grayscale print, but as soon as I try to add color everything goes south. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it?==

A: Adding colors to a HueForge image isn’t always straightforward. One way to learn how to manage colors is to use the examples provided in the HueForge/Projects folder. Load them and examine the sliders and other settings to see how the results were achieved. Then nudge sliders and other controls to see their effects. Then try loading one of your images that has similar colors in place of the original and see how it looks. This is especially true for modes like Color Pop (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?]] for additional information) and Color Aware (see [[#Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?]] for additional information).

Additional information on how to use Color Pop and Color Aware is available [[How To Pages|here]]. There are also several video tutorials by HueForge [https://www.youtube.com/@hueforging] and others available on YouTube [https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hueforge].

==Q: How do I select filaments/colors to match my image?==

A: Right clicking on a point in the source image in HueForge opens a dialog menu with two choices; Find Closest Filament or Create New Filament. Selecting the first-choice sorts both Owned and Unowned filament libraries to place the filaments in nearest color order. If an Owned filament color is not acceptable a filament near the top of the Unowned list can be tested to see if it provides a better match.

Unowned filament items can be tested in the design to see how they perform without any obligation to purchase them. If you want to find a source of that filament right-clicking on color swatches that have a triangle cutout on the lower right will open a dialog with a Buy Filament option that takes you to an affiliated sales portal of that filament’s provider.

==Q: I'm new to HueForge and I think I've done everything correctly. But in the slicer there is only black?==

A: HueForge output contains the description of which filaments/colors were selected and what layers those colors occupy. However, it does NOT build a 3mf slicer file, because they are not fully standardized between slicer applications at this time. Rather, it is your job to define the filaments and the layers (height) at which a swap is required. This information is available in the [Project_Name]_describe.txt file that is created when the project (Project_Name) is saved.

==Q: How do I make my print thicker so it’s not so floppy?==

A: The easiest way to do this is to increase the value of Base Height in HueForge (or both the Min and Max depths in versions before 0.9.0 by an equal amount). Then to speed printing, the layer heights of the part of the print up to the Min depth can be increased to reduce the number of layers. This is called a Height Range Modifier in some slicers (not variable height). If it is used, the color changes are added at the layer height in millimeters, rather than the layer number.

==Q: I'm trying to do a print with a transparent background, but there is a rectangle where it should be blank in the slicer. How do I fix this?==

A: That is the [[Common_Terms]] Lazy Programmer Rectangle (LPR). It is a set of zero height triangles that disappears when sliced.

==Q: Can I turn the print over to make it completely flat?==

A: No, because HueForge designs have only one color per layer. It often uses more than one layer of the same color, but a flat print would need more than one color per layer to produce the image. However, since the prints are generally thin, in most applications the surface texture is generally not a problem, even for things like coasters. And in other applications, like faux materials, the added texture gives an added sense of realism to the end product.

==Q: Will it hurt anything for me to scale up/down the model (STL) file in the slicer?==
A: Scaling the model up or down in HueForge is the best approach. However, if you just need to do a small adjustment (say 10-15%), it can be done in the slicer for the X and Y dimensions, only. Do NOT scale the Z axis as it changes layer heights, which adversely affects the color blending.

==Q: Do I need a purge tower with HueForge prints?==

a: In a word, NO. Because a HueForge print intentionally blends filament colors to create the image, a little overlap of the previous color will be unrecognizable in the final print. Save the time and filament by turning off the purge tower.

==Q: How do I print with more than four colors when I only have one AMS?==

A: You can swap filaments during the print in your single AMS, though you have to be sure not to miss the swap. So, either add pauses, or pull the fourth color that is going to print after the print is started (once the printer starts doing ANYTHING after the model is loaded). Add the extra filaments in the slicer. When you start the print and it asks you where to map the filaments, you select the correct slots (say fifth color in slot 1, sixth in slot 2, etc.).

Note: Pulling the fourth color is probably preferred, because if you ARE there to reload it, putting the color back in means the print will not pause at all.

==Q: When do I need to use Color Pop and how does it work?==

A: Pictures with one region of color over a monochrome background benefit from the Color Pop mode. This mode stacks two color spectra one on top of the other. This puts the background of the image on the bottom of the print and the colored part above the background.

The original version of HueForge required breaking the image into separate images that were then joined after printing to accomplish this. This newer mode merges the process into one workflow within HueForge. Think of it as stacking two HueForged designs on top of each other. To do this it is necessary to define each region from dark to light, most often by duplicating the black and white filaments, once in the lower grayscale region and the second set to define the boundaries of the upper colored region.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Pop|Color Pop mode is available here]].

==Q: When do I need to use Color Aware and how does it work?==

A: As with Color Pop, Color Aware is sometimes the best way to get the needed color separation that a project demands. This is often the case when the image contains two or three dominant colors but few greyscale areas. Like Color Pop, Color Aware reproduces the color spectrum multiple times one on top of the other.

The difference is that instead of separating grayscale from color, Color Aware separates levels by the primary RGB colors: red, blue and green. Control is provided to expand or contract the color levels based on a particular project’s needs.

An online help with a detailed explanation for [[Color Aware|Color Aware mode is available here]].

==Q: Can HueForge be used to make lithophanes? If so, how is it done?==

A: Yes, before its release Hueforge started out as a tool to help produce colored lithophanes. Selecting Blending Type > Lithophanes in the appropriate tool bar enters that operational mode. Monochrome lithophanes with cool colors (blues or greens) OR warm colors (reds/yellows) are easily developed, but full spectrum images need special treatment discussed in some detail in the article [[Stained_Glass| How to Make a Stained Glass HueForge Lithophane]].

==Q: Why when I port my HueForge into my slicer and add the filament swaps, it seems to not work with color?==

A: The view in the slicer certainly looks different from the HueForge window, because the slicer doesn't know how to blend colors. Clicking on "Slicer View" in HueForge will reveal more or less what the slicer will show.

==Q: If a filament painting requires more than four colors do I have to have multiple AMS/MMU?==

A: Not at all. The BambuLab AMS allows you to 'hot swap' spools while printing. If you have a five colour print, you can take out the first spool in the AMS once it has completed printing and replace it with the fifth spool. As long as you have told the slicer that the first spool and the fifth spool occupy the same slot in the AMS, you will be perfectly fine!

==Q: Why is my Export STL Option Grayed Out?==

A: You have loaded an STL file as your input (most often the TD_Step_Test.stl). As such, there is no STL output to export, you already have it. HueForge does not modify pre-existing STL files.

==Q: Why when I have a transparent image there is still a rectangle in the slicer?==

A: Two options here - first, make sure your image is ACTUALLY transparent. If you don't see the checkboard behind the image itself, it isn't transparent. Second, if it really is transparent, then it's the result of the "Lazy Programmer Rectangle". That is, a zero-height region that disappears when sliced.

==Q: Why do I have different number of layers between the HueForge program and the slicer?==

A: The most common reason this happens, especially if the layer is off by one or two layers (HueForge says you should have 10 but the slicer says you have 9 layers) is because the image has tall spikes of colours that appear unprintable in the slicer. Portions of the image that are generally thinner than your line width will be ignored by the slicer and therefore will have one or two fewer layers than what HueForge expects due to these spikes. This video helps explain this occurrence: [https://youtu.be/w8udIPVC80g| HELP! Why Doesn't my Mesh Height Match!?]

Color Match

2026-01-01T18:57:38Z

Tlavedas:

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==
[Major revision, Jan 1 2026]

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable in a drop down at the bottom of the image (right) pane. (A development version might move it to the Mesh Mode tool bar.) It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting which is often the best selection. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
#To get a good color match, it can be beneficial to insert a LOT of individual image colors on the Mesh Core for some images. You do not need to copy them all over to the Color Core and can often simplify them to a lot fewer colors. The purpose of the extra colors on the Mesh Core is just to aid with strong matching.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview and if they are at the top of the mesh the model will not include the upper saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T17:04:24Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable in a drop down at the bottom of the image (right) pane. (A development version might move it to the Mesh Mode tool bar.) It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting which is often the best selection. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
#To get a good color match, it can be beneficial to insert a LOT of individual image colors on the Mesh Core for some images. You do not need to copy them all over to the Color Core and can often simplify them to a lot fewer colors. The purpose of the extra colors on the Mesh Core is just to aid with strong matching.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview and if they are at the top of the mesh the model will not include the upper saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T17:02:56Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable in in a drop down at the bottom of the image (right) pane. (A development version might move it to the Mesh Mode tool bar.) It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting which is often the best selection. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
#To get a good color match, it can be beneficial to insert a LOT of individual image colors on the Mesh Core for some images. You do not need to copy them all over to the Color Core and can often simplify them to a lot fewer colors. The purpose of the extra colors on the Mesh Core is just to aid with strong matching.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview and if they are at the top of the mesh the model will not include the upper saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T16:53:11Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable in the Mesh Mode tool bar item. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
#To get a good color match, it can be beneficial to insert a LOT of individual image colors on the Mesh Core for some images. You do not need to copy them all over to the Color Core and can often simplify them to a lot fewer colors. The purpose of the extra colors on the Mesh Core is just to aid with strong matching.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview and if they are at the top of the mesh the model will not include the upper saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T16:48:46Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pane. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
#To get a good color match, it can be beneficial to insert a LOT of individual image colors on the Mesh Core for some images. You do not need to copy them all over to the Color Core and can often simplify them to a lot fewer colors. The purpose of the extra colors on the Mesh Core is just to aid with strong matching.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview and if they are at the top of the mesh the model will not include the upper saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T16:29:11Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pane. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview and if they are at the top of the mesh the model will not include the upper saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T16:27:36Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview and if they are at the top of the mesh the model will not include the upper saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T15:41:12Z

Tlavedas: /* What is Color Match? */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is, the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview nor will the model contain the saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

File:Simple Example Find Filament.png

2025-12-31T15:31:25Z

Tlavedas: Find Filament example

== Summary ==
Find Filament example

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T15:29:37Z

Tlavedas: /* Color Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu (as shown below).

[[File: Simple_Example_Find_Filament.png| Find Closest Filament |thumb|500px|center]]

This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview nor will the model contain the saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T15:27:02Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview nor will the model contain the saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (Right Click->Disable Layer). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T15:21:48Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview nor will the model contain the saturated layers, unless the lower layers are disabled (press d while hovering over the layer or use popup menu). If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-31T15:04:11Z

Tlavedas: /* Final Tips and Techniques */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the CIELAB 2 CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-30T22:03:13Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to get a full-size image to see the detail. Then back up twice to get back to this page.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-30T22:00:01Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image shown here once to open a page with the stored file and then again on that image to get to the full screen version to get a full-size image to see the detail.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-30T21:55:47Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the project by that name in the HueForge/Projects folder but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image -twice- to get a full size image to see the detail.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-30T21:50:26Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held. This is true UNLESS you drop an image color onto a '''filament''' - not layer - that is already on the Mesh Core (like one of your default filaments) then it keeps the TD assigned to that filament.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image -twice- to get a full size image to see the detail.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-21T19:48:18Z

Tlavedas: /* Overview of Color Match Steps */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly describing how to use the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load the image into HueForge and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1. Use the scroll wheel or arrow keys to adjust the TD.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the Color Core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust the layer heights of filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image -twice- to get a full size image to see the detail.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-21T19:40:15Z

Tlavedas:

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly described for using the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load image and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image -twice- to get a full size image to see the detail.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-21T19:29:00Z

Tlavedas: /* What is Color Match? */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==Overview of Color Match Steps==

The following are steps briefly described for using the Color Match mode to develop a project in HueForge.

1. Load image and select Color Match from the Mesh Mode drop down menu.

2. Make sure the Mesh Core just to the left of the image is highlighted by clicking on it, if necessary.

3. ***Important:*** Ctrl-drag colors from the image onto the Mesh Core at the places desired in the stack of colors. This is commonly done from darkest to lightest colors. Near matching actual filaments can be added to the Mesh Core, though this is not generally the best practice. (Note that other orders sometimes work better - takes practice.)

4. It is often necessary to then adjust the TD values of the colors (not filaments, if used) on the Mesh Core to enable better blending of colors into intermediate shades. Hover over the color flag and press T to toggle from layer number to/from TD values. The default for a color is a TD = 1.

4. Once the preview image at the left is acceptably colored, switch to the Color Core by clicking on it, just to the right of the preview pane.

5. Select filaments matching (or resembling) the color on the Mesh Core and place them on the core at the appropriate layer.

6. Adjust filaments (Color Core) and/or colors (Mesh Core) to help achieve desired results.

7. Save the project for printing. Reference the project's describe.txt file for how to specify the colors in your slicer (must be added manually).

Details for these steps are provided with examples below.

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image -twice- to get a full size image to see the detail.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-12-03T20:12:58Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom. (You might need to click on the image -twice- to get a full size image to see the detail.)

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

File:Von Gogh Example Image.png

2025-12-03T20:06:18Z

Tlavedas: Complex image start screen

== Summary ==
Complex image start screen

New Color Match Page

2025-12-03T19:57:41Z

Tlavedas: /* Color Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

And there you have it a finished Color Match project ready to print. It isn't likely you'd want to print this one, but that is the bare bones process for a color match.

Having gotten this far, you can choose to try a more complex image that is probably best attempted with Color Match Mesh Mode.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

File:Simple Image Color Core.png

2025-12-03T19:53:31Z

Tlavedas: Color Core loaded

== Summary ==
Color Core loaded

New Color Match Page

2025-12-03T19:52:27Z

Tlavedas: /* Color Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Default Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Image_Color_Core.png| Loaded Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

File:Simple Example CC Start.png

2025-12-03T19:50:04Z

Tlavedas: Switched from Mesh Core to default colors on Color Core.

== Summary ==
Switched from Mesh Core to default colors on Color Core.

New Color Match Page

2025-11-17T18:45:16Z

Tlavedas: /* Color Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

Once you have your mesh core looking good, the next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. First, select the color core (double click). Then find colors that match your mesh core and add them to your color core by dragging them from the filament library. Probably best to select primary, solid colors to start. Blacks, reds, whites, etc, paying attention to their TD’s while doing this. Next, consider colors to make blends, i.e. yellows and blues for a green. That kind of thing. Note: It’s not uncommon to have many more colors on the Mesh Core than filaments on the Color Core. Prints with a 3:1 mesh:filament ratios are not out of the question. Remember, the Mesh Core defines where colors are matched in the mesh. The Color Core defines the colors.

Filaments can come directly by eye from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the Color Core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching filament colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the Color Core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, this example might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-11-15T19:59:55Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print result is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

When you select the colors and put them on the mesh core, you’re actually changing the shape of the mesh. You can validate this by turning on Wireframe, zooming into your mesh, and moving sliders on the mesh core up and down (make sure mesh core is selected). This helps to show how to build your mesh. Dark to light or light to dark, where to put colors, etc.

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen your project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. They can come directly from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the color core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the color core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, it might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-10-31T14:38:11Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Von_Gogh_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print results is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen you project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. They can come directly from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the color core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the color core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, it might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-10-31T14:37:23Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print results is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File: Von_Gogh_Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen you project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. They can come directly from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the color core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the color core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, it might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-10-31T14:35:07Z

Tlavedas: /* Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print results is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File:Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen you project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. They can come directly from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the color core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the color core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, it might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-10-31T14:31:11Z

Tlavedas: /* Color Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Simple_Example_CC_Start.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The selection of filaments can be straightforward for this example, though that is not always the case. It depends on how complicated the image is and how many colors are present. For this simple image the idea is to replace the default filaments with colors present on the Mesh Core. So pick a green, brown and blue similar to the ones on the image and drop them on to the Color Core at locations opposite the ones on the Mesh Core. Start with colors you have in your Owned library, which should be easy for this four-color image. More complex images are likely to require some compromises as it isn't possible (or necessary) to own all the colors and shades of filament. In such cases, there are techniques that work to expand the available pallet of colors, like blending a color over black to darken the shade or adding a white over a color to lighten it. Keep those concepts in mind while building a Color Core stack.

If you are having trouble picking a color, the nearest filament color can be found by hovering the cursor over a color (on the Mesh Core or on the image), right-click and use the "Find Closest Filament" item in the popup menu. This sorts the Owned And Unowned filament library lists to put matching colors in descending order from closest color, so that a selection can be easily made. Note that it is sometimes useful to look at the Unowned list, if you are not satisfied with any of the Owned colors. You can always run a trial to see if buying the unowned color is worth considering.

Once you have made your color selections, your preview should look something like this.

[[File: Simple_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. They can come directly from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the color core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print results is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File:Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen you project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the color core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, it might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-10-29T20:31:38Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

==Video Work Along Tutorials (0.9+)==

Thanks to Danny at NeoKoi Prints for these Color Match Crash Course videos:

**[https://youtu.be/xBePJlYU3zg?si=ZR0VxOwbRIzlldR1| Lesson 1]
**[https://youtu.be/1qCN3MWJdZM?si=jvBS72YI3n9ZgGkH| Lesson 2]
**[https://youtu.be/cIrGPaCTSg8?si=qfqWMFUnAO7TReIo| Lesson 3]

==What is Color Match?==

Color Match is a Mesh Mode (formerly called a luminance mode) introduced in version 0.8.0 and updated in version 0.9.x. It is a mode that greatly differs from the usual operations of other HueForge mesh modes. Instead of the source image creating a mesh from the image intensity (luminance), in Color Match mode, '''you select''' the colors by dragging them from the image (or the filament library) onto the Mesh Core to create the order of the layers on the mesh. That is the Mesh Core defines on what layer a color will be put. If you want red in the background, you put it at or near the bottom, if you want blue, you put it there, etc. That is, this mode matches a color to a layer, rather than to a luminance value.

==Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core==

One of the biggest differences in this mode is that there are two cores between the image and preview panes. The one to the left is the standard Color Core which defines the model to be printed, while the second one is the Mesh Core to its right with a number of controls between the two. Learning the purpose and operation of the Mesh Core is fundamental to using the Color Match mode successfully. Making full use of this mode takes some practice but once grasped it opens up a whole realm of possibilities the other modes cannot match.

[[File: Color_Match_Mode.png|500px|center]]

Most of the controls that were in docks in previous versions of HueForge are now housed in toolbars at the top or bottom of the version 0.9+ application window. Likewise, Color Match is initiated from the appropriate toolbar by selecting that option from the Mesh Mode drop-down menu.

[[File: Mesh_Mode_Dropdown.png|250px|center]]

To help understand the two cores, let's work through two example prints, one very simple and one advanced.

===A Simple Example===

The process is in two stages: populating the Mesh Core with the image colors (and/or filament colors) and then populating the Color Core with filament colors.

====Mesh Core====

After loading your image, assembling colors on the Mesh Core is the essential first step in the Color Match workflow. For the purpose of illustration, let's start with a very simple image that might be possible in another mode just to illustrate the Color Match workflow.

[[File: Pixel_Tree.png|250px|center|A Pixelated Tree Image]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media:Pixel_Tree.png]]

Once loaded into HueForge, it will appear in the default grayscale of the Standard Mesh Mode.

[[File: Simple_Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (cyan surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

Once the Color Match Mesh mode is selected it is time to get colors from the image. This is easily done by Ctrl-dragging using the cursor (Cmd-drag in MacOS) from the image onto the Mesh Core. Filaments that are a color match to the colors in the image can also be dragged from the library to the Mesh Core, though some image derived colors help to improve the blending of color in the final model. This is especially true for areas where colors change gradually from one shade to another.

When the Mesh Core is active (surrounded be a cyan box), the image preview on the left reflects the model mesh as defined by the Mesh Core. Below is a short example of dragging a color (while holding the Ctrl or Cmd key) from the image to the mesh.

[[File: A_Color_Drag.mp4|500px|center|thummb|Drag a Green from the Image.]]

Colors derived from the source image and placed on the Mesh Core are normally blended in the same manner as they would if they were "real" filaments. Then the program seeks to match the resulting spectrum of colors to the filament colors that you add to the Color Core later in the workflow (or sliders, if using, though the sliders are no longer fundamental in versions after 0.9.0). Note that there is little or no blending for this simple image because the colors were specifically made flat.

Since the Mesh Core allows you to build the filament painting's mesh by picking colors and placing them at any layer on the core, colors placed on the lower layers of the mesh core will be laid down first (for example, the background of an image) and then they blend upward as you add colors to the Mesh Core.

In this simple example we need to place the brown, green and blue somewhere between the black lower and white upper colors to replace the original two grays and in one more place.

[[File:Simple_Mesh_Loaded.png|500px|center|thumb|Simple Image Mesh]]

Several things to note in the illustration above are that the total height of the model is much lower than the initial height, that the black layers are reduced to a minimum and that the Mesh Core preview is very nearly identical to the input image. One thing that is not obvious, but true, is that the highest color (white filament) is not contributing to the image at all. If you compare the reported Mesh Height below the preview at 1.12 mm to the topmost color flag on the Mesh Core at 1.6 mm, it becomes apparent. Because that is the case, HueForge does not include it in the output mesh.

The reason the total height of the model was reduced is that adding more layers failed to change the blended shades of those colors. That is, the colors became saturated and adding more layers only adds more print time without any change in the appearance of the final print (as illustrated in the preview on the left). The way saturation is shown is by an equal sign turned vertically on the core at the layer where the saturation begins and subsequent saturated layers. As mentioned, saturated layers at the top of the print are ignored (i.e. not included in the model mesh).

Generally having saturated layers on the cores is to be avoided as they have little if any impact on the results. However, there are a few times where saturated layers are useful. One is when it is desired to block blending of lower levels into the colors above. For example, a well saturated black between a red and a blue can keep purple shades from appearing in the print. Likewise, a saturated white to keep dark tones from creeping into bright pastel colors. Another time it is useful is if a very thick print is intended for effect. Just know that the program stops trying to match colors after the first layer of saturated color.

Another important point to note is that the TD value of colors derived from an image onto the Mesh Core is one (1) by default. Such colors saturate in just a few layers. It is very often valuable to adjust these values up (or down) to enable more gradual transitions from one color/shade to another to get the best results. This will become more evident in the next, more complicated example. The values are adjusted by hovering over a color flag and pressing the T key or right-clicking to open a popup menu and selecting the "Show TD (t)" menu item. Then use the scroll ring or up/down arrow keys to change it. Normally the increment is 0.5 per click or 0.2 if the Shift key is held.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The next step in the process after setting up the Mech Core is to move to the Color Core, by clicking on it or by pressing the green arrow button at the bottom between the two cores. Do not be surprised by the preview that results, as it is likely to be in grayscale, since it only has your default filament set on it at this point.

[[File: Start_Color_Core.png| Color Core Preview |thumb|500px|center]]

The next step is to select filament colors that match or approximate the corresponding colors found on the Mesh Core. They can come directly from your Owned library filaments by dragging to the color core, as with other modes. Or they can be matched to the colors previously placed on the Mesh Core by right-clicking on the filament flag (or a two-finger press on a track pad or an Apple mouse) and selecting Find Closest Filament. This sorts the filament Owned and Unowned library lists putting the best matching colors at the top of each list. Colors on the image can also be used in much the same manner by right-clicking at a location on the image.

===An Advanced Example===

====Mesh Core====

Now let's advance to an image that would be nearly impossible to render satisfactorily in any of the other Mesh Modes, that is the image from the "Van Gogh Style Field.hfp" example in the HueForge/Tools folder.

[[File: Van Gogh Style Field.webp|250px|center]]
Click this link to access the example image and download or drag it into HueForge: [[Media: Van Gogh Style Field.webp]]

('''Note:''' This image is from the HueForge/Tools project by that name but would need to be exported from it since all the example projects store their images internal to the project file.)

[[File: Example_Image.png| The Mesh Core (red surround) |thumb|500px|center]]

To further illustrate this process, the image, taken from the HueForge/Projects folder is shown here with black and white filaments (at the top and bottom, designated with five sided outlines) and six image derived colors on the Mesh Core (designated by six sided outlines). It is meant to show a Mesh Core as one might begin to define the color layers there. Note that the preview image on the left is only a representation of the image resulting from the "fake" filaments shown. A preview of the likely print results is developed in the Color Core part of the workflow that follows.

[[File:Mesh_Core.png| Mesh Core Preview |500px|thumb|center]]

An important distinction to note is that the TD values of an image derived color is 1 by default. It is very often useful, even necessary, to adjust this value to better match actual filaments to be applied to the Color Core later in the process. Pressing T while hovering over a color flag shows the value. Either scroll up/down or use the up/down arrow keys to change the values in increments of 0.5. Hold the Ctrl key to change the values in steps of 0.2.

Specifically, the example shown above is shown below with all the TD values shown, as revealed by pressing the green TD button (toggles) to the left of the Mesh Core near its bottom.

[[File:Mesh_Core_TDs.png| Filament TDs Displayed |500px|thumb|center]]

Take care to change ''''only'''' the image colors and not the values of any actual filament on either of the cores. If that happens, save your work, leave HueForge while rejecting any filament library saves and then reopen you project to avoid permanently altering the values unintentionally.

Though there are clearly some shortcomings at this point in the development, such as the miscolored flowers and clouds and some missing reddish-brown details, this example illustrates the basic function of the Mesh Core.

Once the Mesh Core preview is satisfactory, operation switches to the Color Core.

====Color Core====

The preview image on the left will not change to reflect the selected colors until the color core is selected by clicking on it or using the arrow control button at the bottom right of the core. It is not entirely bad to wait to do this until all or most of the first set of colors are in place on the core, because the image will become falsely colored with each partial set of colors. This can be downright scary to watch. For example, this is what it would look like if the first dark blue filament selection was used to replace the first default gray filament

[[File: Color_Core_One_Color.png|One Color on the Color Core|thumb|500px|center]]

Delaying the selection until an initial set of the colors is in place results in a more pleasing first impression of the print preview that results. For example, it might look something like this with seven filaments placed in appropriate places on the Color Core.

[[File: Colors_Placed_on_Color_Core.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

While it is not perfect, this is a good start. Not too bad for just seven filament colors. It needs a reddish-brown, some work on the colors in the clouds, and refinement of the greens and yellows. Accomplishing this might require an increase in the Blend Depth and/or reduction of the layer height to accommodate more colors.

Here is an attempt with just seven filament colors with 0.04 mm layer heights. Note that this also employes the Bright Enhance 1 Brightness Compensation with a weighting of 1.4 as well as the Fast Spike Removal. To limit the number of different filaments the white was reused to provide lighter versions of several colors. Using a yellow in multiple places can also help to blend greens into lime colors and reds into oranges. This approach widens the color pallet available from a limited number of filaments

[[File: Color_Match_0.04mm.png| Initial Color Set |thumb|500px|center]]

So, is this an exact replication of the original image? Obviously not. But at some point in the development, it might be best to stop looking at the original and just decide whether the preview represents the print you would be pleased to have.

==Final Tips and Techniques==

# While doing the final editing it is often useful to add a filament just to see how it works in the composition. In the event it doesn't work, the filament can be disabled by hovering over its flag on the Color Core and pressing the spacebar or right-click and select the Disable or Delete Slider option. Hitting the delete key also works to delete the filament. The disable function can be toggled on and off by pressing the spacebar to allow easy comparison.
# The Matching algorithm is adjustable at the bottom of the image pain. It is initially in the Default CM setting. Other selections are as shown. It is useful to try the options reasonably early in development to determine which is best for your particular image. [[File: Color_Match_Dialog.png|200px|center]]
# Images with soft gradient colors benefit a lot by putting more colors off of the image on the Mesh Core.
# When working on the Color Core, after setting up the Mesh Core, lay out the filaments in ways that approximates the spectrum of colors on the Mesh Core. In doing that, remember it is possible to blend a white over a primary color to blend toward a pastel color. This can help limit the number of filaments needed and greatly expand the pallet of colors available.
# Vertical equal signs in a core means that color is saturate at that layer. If it is in the Mesh Core, that layer will not be used to match colors in the preview. If it is in the Color Core, the blending of that color is not changed and if it is in the uppermost layer HueForge will truncate the model at the last unsaturated layer.

New Color Match Page

2025-10-29T20:19:59Z

Tlavedas: /* Mesh Core */

New Color Match Page

2025-10-29T20:09:57Z

Tlavedas: /* Understanding the Color Core and the Mesh Core */

New Color Match Page

2025-10-20T19:55:30Z

Tlavedas: /* A Simple Example */

File:Simple Image Mesh Loaded.png

2025-10-16T19:30:51Z

Tlavedas: Simple pixel tree mesh loaded.

== Summary ==
Simple pixel tree mesh loaded.